
Russell Addinall...It's a very versatile construction.
Stitchdowns: The Veldskoen Phenomenon
Published: 26th Feb 2021
The name is derived from the Afrikaans vel, later assimilated with veld, and skoene. They were first made by the Dutch settlers in the mid-17th century. The design is believed to be based on the traditional Khoisan footwear observed by these settlers. The footwear was later embedded into the South African cultural psyche, the rest is history.
Trends are being constantly reinterpreted and the Veldskoen is enjoying its revival as a core fashion item. The “Veldtschoen” construction is a Goodyear welting type shoe production method whereas, the “Stitchdown” construction is a simple outward flanged and stitched method. Stitchdowns are manufactured using the force lasting method. This requires only a heavy-duty sewing machine and therefore has a much lower “cost to entry” than traditional pull toe lasting which requires expensive machinery and tooling.
This has led to a resurgence in smaller manufacturers producing this type of footwear. An important observation is that companies offering the Veldskoen are much more marketing driven and are actively engaging the massive online market. Their strengths being, brand building, product development and a creative marketing strategy. Many of the factories producing the product are SMME’s run by workers previously employed by larger manufacturers.
When the question is posed "What do manufacturers do when it slows”, this will depend on how they make use of this productive period. Skills development will play a pivotal role as the current workforce although experienced is aging. This is an ideal time for the training of new entrants as well as the upskilling of the existing staff.
Product development is vital to sustaining production and the stitchdown method is exceptionally versatile. Boots, shoes and sandals can all be produced using this construction. Soles can vary with heels, wedges and units. The products are both sturdy and easily repairable giving them great longevity.
One of the first Veldskoen factories was founded in 1836 by Johann Gottlieb Leipoldt, grandfather of the famous South African poet C. Louis Leipoldt in the town of Wupperthal in the Western Cape. Since then, there have been a number of manufacturers that have come and gone but, now we see a new generation many of whom are “Under the radar” as far as the formal industry is concerned. These new entrants are bringing a fresh approach and are definitely being noticed.
If what is available through a simple online search is any indication, there is diversity and creativity within the local market and companies that are embracing technology to market their product as well as their manufacturing partners will benefit from their efforts.
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This article s part of a feature set of articles that were published in S&V Footwear & Leather Goods Magazine Vol87 No2 February 2021
- Stitchdowns: It's been a great ride - can it continue?Stitchdowns have been riding a global wave for several years now. What makes that special for the southern African footwear industry is that a) it's an evergreen item for a core (and not insignificant) customer group and b), it's a construction that has been made locally since - well forever, really - meaning they have a realistic o ...more
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