One of Covid's winners

Comfort footwear, comfortable footwear, wellness footwear, health footwear - different names and shades of meaning - but until fairly recently, in South Africa, mostly footwear for one category of end consumer, dominated by a few brands and a few specialist retailers.

Athleisure footwear, derived from running and other sports where comfort is essential for performance, initially appealed to a younger audience from a fashion perspective, but it has become so universal that its appeal is now ageless, and athleisure has influenced how traditional comfort brands design their footwear.

In the NPD article elsewhere in this issue, Beth Goldstein writes: "In fact, fashion footwear (particularly dress) has been losing share to more comfort-oriented and athleisure categories for years, aligning with similar trends in apparel. These trends became even more pronounced during the pandemic."

It's still a distinct category, and those brands and retailers that understand it have an advantage, but there are now many more opportunities - in materials, in styling, in retail channels - to appeal to a growing market.

For this issue, aside from the respondents listed below, S&V approached a number of other brands for comment.

Froggie was unable to respond within the timeframe.

Green Cross, which is now part of Spitz, wrote: "...as with all AVI businesses we don’t discuss any detail, this is considered confidential."

Corvari, Crocs and Birkenstock did not respond to requests for comment.

 

 

Bolton Footwear (Grasshoppers,Dr Hart, Young Klinik)   Devan Odayan, men' s formal  designer

                                                                                                        Gordon Gassert , men's casual designer

                                                                                                        Tersia Fisher, ladies' designer

                                                                                                        Tim Vermeulen, men's comfort designer

 

Dale Footwear (Hush Puppies)                                         Laurence Lotzoff, director.

 

Hotter SA (Hotter)                                                                 Bruce Wilson, member.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Devan Odayan: Various lightened sole compounds are being utilised to ease the weight on the foot which contributes to comfort features. Also these sole compounds has added cushioning features which counteract the impact on the foot while walking and working out. High density full  footbeds have become a norm in most footwear to assist in achieving comfortable footwear.

Gordon Gassert: Yes, I think manufacturers are making use of breathable weave-knit uppers which assist in ventilation of the foot, inner socks with comfort features to massage the sole of the foot, the constant development of super soft and shock absorbing midsole materials are contributing vastly to the product on offer.

Tersia Fisher: There have been many advances in different components. For instance, Ortholite has various innersock options which offer memory foam and anti-bacterial elements. Many brands have collaborated with Vibram as they have a good reputation for offering outsoles which are durable, comfortable and light weight. A shoe’s outsole is directly tied to how comfortable it will be on your feet. Vibram’s unique compound blends foam and rubber to create an outsole that has the best traits of both materials - the softness and springiness of foam, and the durability and traction of rubber.

Tim Vermeulen: Yes, as technology advances and the call for comfort grows we’ll see growth in advanced materials, components, design, functionality and manufacturing. At the moment the big comfort draws remain footbeds, sole shapes and compounds, upper designs, materials, etc.   

 

Laurence Lotzoff: There are always new technological concepts coming through, from outsoles to upper materials. Hush Puppies is re-launching its very successful Body Shoe in the next few months, as well as delivering its Eco-Friendly Good Shoe into the market in the next few weeks – it has recycled uppers and a Bloom outsole which is made of 20% algae. Certainly two concepts amongst others that set us apart from our competitors.

 

Bruce Wilson: The biggest innovations have been the introduction of stretch knit uppers and memory insoles which have certainly enhanced the comfort aspect of footwear. In general though, the soles are still mainly PU which provides flexibility and comfort. 

 

 

Laurence Lotzoff: There will always be a demand for leather, albeit on a smaller scale. Synthetic materials and, by default, knitted/mesh uppers, are still growing in the athleisure market. Hush Puppies also has more affordable leather products which have proven very successful.

 

Bruce Wilson: Not necessarily, other materials have been widely introduced and accepted although leather is still widely used and in particular older customers demand leather if they are buying expensive footwear. I don’t think that younger customers pay as much attention to whether the upper is leather or not.

 

Devan Odayan: In premium brands leather is the recommended upper material.

Gordon Gassert: ...product depending I think leather will always be 1st choice due to its durability, quality and aging appeal. 

Tersia Fisher: Yes, customers understand the value and durability of leather.

Tim Vermeulen: Locally I would say yes, but internationally we can see loads of exciting development with materials that are focused on comfort. For instance we can find synthetic upper materials that are structured in a way to provide support at different points on the foot.   

 

 

Bruce Wilson: I presume that you are talking about synthetic leather? This is obviously used to achieve certain price points. The same cannot be said about other upper materials which are sometimes more expensive than leather.

 

Devan Odayan: Synthetic uppers are crucial to cater for lower price points.

Gordon Gassert: Yes, as the synthetics these days are often hard to tell apart from genuine leather to the untrained eye. Although not as durable as genuine leather, synthetics hold a price advantage over genuine leather products. In most sports footwear, synthetics are the preferred choice as they can be purposely made to handle the conditions the product will be worn in. Often certain parts of the shoes are made up of a combination of leather and synthetic to improve the wear and tear and extend the life of the product.

Tersia Fisher: Yes, from a price point perspective, especially in a fashion market where a trend may only last for a season or two, consumers don’t want to spend as much as they would for a leather shoe. Synthetic uppers also have a place for the growing vegan market, where any non-leather product is considered vegan.

Tim Vermeulen: Yes, if the right synthetics are used they can be versatile, durable and supportive for the end user. They can also be hugely beneficial in manufacturing, especially in terms of waste reduction.

 

Laurence Lotzoff:  It’s all about affordability and balancing on-trend designs with longevity. We strive to have good quality and contemporary comfort always, and by introducing the Soft Style by Hush Puppies Collection for women, we were able to also add affordability to our product offering as well.

 

 

 

Laurence Lotzoff: Under-foot comfort is paramount but breathable materials and fit are equally important.

 

Bruce Wilson: There are multiple components that make a shoe comfortable, the sole which needs to be light and flexible and the innersole and upper which all need to be made from the correct materials. Obviously this all counts for nothing if the fit is not correct.  

 

Devan Odayan: The type of sole and footbeds being used.

Gordon Gassert: A well fitting last, soft upper leathers, sole flexibility and padded inner socks.

Tersia Fisher: The fit of the last should generally be a wide fit (EE/EEE). Other comfort features include the inner sock which may be padded and is generally pre-moulded. A light-weight outsole also plays a big role in comfort as well as upper materials, namely softer leathers (depending on the type of footwear).

Tim Vermeulen: I think the go-to features are comfortable, supportive footbeds, soft flexible soles, supportive upper designs and lasts.

 

 

 

Devan Odayan: Casual / athleisure footwear.

Gordon Gassert: Modern styling, breathable uppers, comfort inners and flexible soles. 

Tersia Fisher: Due to the prolonged stay-at-home status, “stay home” styling is dominating the industry which includes comfort footwear - namely open sliders which have slipper-like elements which is currently trending. Comfort sneakers are used to extend from running to daily errands.

Tim Vermeulen: I try to go for simplicity when designing comfort shoes, always keeping the end user in mind. Use basic design principles of ‘form follows function’ – I don’t believe these types of shoes should be over-engineered. The user has comfort in mind and aesthetics are a bonus.

 

Laurence Lotzoff: Hush Puppies always has a fair representation of on-trend design in the range alongside our core leather and synthetic lines. However, the recent shift to athleisure, like hybrid sneakers, etc., as well as loungewear, is a definite direction to be going in.

 

Bruce Wilson: Ath/leisure has transformed the footwear industry. Fashion is less formal and stylish comfortable shoes are now leisure is cool. Never thought that I would ever say that!! 

 

 

Laurence Lotzoff: Absolutely not. Rather offer an alternate product at a better price than strip the guts out of the shoe for price. You also certainly don’t need to make shoes ‘mature’ to be comfortable. In fact, older consumers are leaning to more contemporary designs anyway.

 

Bruce Wilson: Not anymore – the introduction of different upper materials has given designers options that don’t compromise comfort. 

 

Devan Odayan: No.

Gordon Gassert: No, I think these days there are so many comfort features available that neither comfort nor looks need be compromised.

Tim Vermeulen: No, if the shoe’s features are sold successfully the consumer will be willing to try it. I think that someone looking for a comfortable shoe will put comfort ahead of aesthetics. That said, today's comfortable shoes don’t have the stigma of an ‘old man’s shoes’.

 

 

 

Devan Odayan: Men's 5 to 15 and ladies' 2 to 10.

Gordon Gassert: I would say focus on ladies' and men’s sizes as they are the ones most likely to have foot issues.

Tersia Fisher: A full size range for each category is pretty standard. However it is favourable to offer smaller and larger sizes than the standard size range. Depending on the type of footwear, half sizes are also a bonus.

Tim Vermeulen: Big sizes across genders, size 13-15 men’s shoes are rare and that customer is usually looking for comfort not a narrow European fit.

 

Laurence Lotzoff: If you offer half sizes, then they should be true halves. Otherwise, one should recognise that there is a huge demand for bigger sizes. We offer to UK9 for ladies and up to UK15 in many of our men’s products.

 

Bruce Wilson: Sizes 3-10 including half sizes for women and 6-13 including half sizes for men, although some manufacturers make shoes up to size 15.

 

 

Bruce Wilson: We mainly use UK sizing in this country although I have been told that some retailers prefer EU sizes because they don’t have to buy as many shoes!!

 

Laurence Lotzoff: Some retailers only work in UK (read SA) sizing but if the product is made to EURO specifications, then be true to the sizing and do not convert.

 

Devan Odayan: South African market should only use English size grading which has proven to be successful.

Gordon Gassert: There will always be issues, as most people are uneducated regarding UK sizing versus Euro versus US sizing.

Tersia Fisher: Generally English, European and American sizing is universal.

Tim Vermeulen: Wider fitting shoes are more common with South African feet especially for comfort. But it depends on the type of shoe, casual, formal, sport, etc. EE fitting seems to be the most common in SA comfort/casual at the moment – for local manufacturing.  

 

 

Devan Odaya: 2 size fittings should be offered to accommodate for various joint girth fittings.

Gordon Gassert: I think it is important that they do even though it can be risky. Over time they will get to know what fittings they need to stock and then cut back on unpopular fittings. 

Tersia Fisher: It  is important for comfort footwear to be offered in a wider fitting. A  EE-EEE fitting would be the most suitable.

Tim Vermeulen: It depends on how broad your range is and what market you serve; some brands can get away with one successful last with multiple styles. Other brands prefer to offer a range of fits – a last fit is one of many features that make a shoe comfortable. It may be better to have 1 or 2 comfort specific lasts than the expense of many – the model making team at John Whittle Components Durban have tons of knowledge when it comes to comfort lasts, fits and sizes. 

 

Laurence Lotzoff: Width fittings is a big part of the comfort business. The only concern is that almost all local retailers won't keep them due to the investment consideration. 

 

Bruce Wilson: They still offer multiple fittings in the UK and Europe but we don’t have the same customer base for this type of footwear in SA which is constrained by price. Retailers can no longer afford to carry all the fittings in all of the styles.   

 

 

 

 

 

Laurence Lotzoff: Certainly. Comfort footwear is a global trend that’s here to stay. Any retailers not seeing that trend, is remiss in doing so.

 

Bruce Wilson: Most of the traditional independent retailers have been operating for many years and have built up a loyal customer base by offering exceptional personal service and niche brands which is why comfort footwear has always been an integral part of their business.

 

Gordon Gassert: Yes, probably more so than the bigger chains. It gives the smaller retailers a chance to offer what the bigger chains might consider “un-fashionable” and may not suit their customer appeal.

Tersia Fisher: The demand for comfort footwear is increasing and it is also currently a trending feature which is what retailers want to capitalise on.

Tim Vermeulen: Yes, their customers are usually repeat customers with something specific in mind. 

 

 

Bruce Wilson: I think traditionally most chains kept away from comfort because it required a level of service they weren't geared up to offer. However, athleisure has turned comfort on its head because it is inherently comfortable and it appeals to a younger audience, which is their target market. Also, women are looking after their feet better, wearing high heels less often, so older women now need less dedicated comfort footwear.

Chains were also put off traditional comfort footwear because of price points - ironic considering the prices of some of the sneakers they sell.

Woolworths has always had a well-priced comfort range called Soft and Flexi. 

 

Devan Odayan: Large chains have already turned their focus to comfort.

Gordon Gassert: As above.

Tersia Fisher: Demand for comfort footwear is increasing and it is also currently a trending feature which is what retailers want to capitalise on.

Tim Vermeulen: The big chains usually target anything trendy regardless of fit or comfort features. But this is not an area I should comment on, sales will know best.

 

Laurence Lotzoff: We are definitely seeing interest coming through.

 

 

Laurence Lotzoff:  I would say they are holding their own. It depends what you define as a traditional comfort retailer though.

 

Devan Odayan: Expanding.

Gordon Gassert: .I think they are expanding. With the likes of Dischem and other such retailers offering comfort product the customer now knows exactly where to find the product.

 

Bruce Wilson: I think overall they're in decline.

Rentals are a very big issue, and independents aren't in a position to negotiate very forcefully. In the 'old days', a retailer could make quite a good living from 1 store; now you need 2 or 3 to maintain the same level.

They have been forced, by Covid, to get into online retailing, and I think that's been good for them, because, more than most retailers, they've built up a loyal customer base.

 

 

 

Devan Odayan: No, the younger generation are now appreciating comfortable everyday footwear.

Gordon Gassert: No, I think the market is wide open to anyone of any race  in South Africa!.

 

Bruce Wilson: It's much broader now.

 

Laurence Lotzoff:  Certainly not. Comfort can be incorporated into any design and it should be. Adding comfort features to the shoe doesn’t detract from the styling certain demographics may prefer. And even then, taste levels are blurring the lines and certain product lines appeal across the board – like our slipper range as an example.

 

 

Tersia Fisher: Definitely. As a female, it has become a standard where all women want comfortable footwear. The concept of comfort has changed which shouldn’t be targeted to a specific race or age group. Women and men want classic and/or trendy footwear which has an element of comfort. With the ever increasing sneaker trend, most people have become used to comfortable footwear which is why women are wearing sneakers with dresses and men are wearing sneakers with suits. 

 

Bruce Wilson: Brands like FitFlop and Crocs have expanded their comfort offering, and Birkenstock is now considered cool by younger customers.

Athleisure has opened up the market for everyone, which has meant that brands like Clarks and Hotter are also now targeting a younger audience. A woman of 60 now won't wear a traditional comfort shoe, and she doesn't have to.

 

Laurence Lotzoff:  We offer contemporary comfort footwear, not high fashion. Race and age have almost nothing to do with our product offering anymore other than maybe some colours or materials.

 

 

Devan Odayan: Comfort now appeals to a broader spectrum of people.

Gordon Gassert: It is easier for men to buy into comfort as they don’t need a pair of shoes for every outfit!. The product on offer out there is so vast that they can buy very comfortable and stylish shoes that will cover most of their needs.

 

Laurence Lotzoff:  There seem to be very few brands in this space. Our business is consistently growing as a result especially because we invest heavily in tooling for bigger sizes and offer lines not many others do.

 

Bruce Wilson: They generally have 2 pairs, 1 black, 1 brown, and they wear them until they wear out, and then complain about how much they paid for them.