Dialdehyde starch, a sustainable, environment-friendly tanning chemical
This is part of a series contributed by the International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) in Grahamstown, E. Cape, SA, summarising complicated research papers into short articles more readily comprehensible to a wider audience.
Introduction
Tanneries are coming under more and more pressure from an environmental point of view to reduce wastage and to look at using more sustainable tanning processes. Chrome has been considered a major pollutant for many decades, but a suitable alternative has been difficult to find.
Starch is an abundant chemical. It is also biodegradable, inexpensive, and naturally renewable, and it has no risk to health or the environment. Native starch cannot be used directly in the tanning industry due to certain drawbacks. It has a high molecular weight which makes it difficult if not impossible to penetrate the fibre structure of a hide. It is insoluble in water and also has no reactive groups that can bind to the functional groups of collagen in order to stabilize and tan the collagen. If starch is to be used in the tanning industry, it will need to undergo some chemical modification.
Previous research by the authors of this research paper has shown that oxidation of starch with hydrogen peroxide can produce certain smaller chemicals that have some tanning effect on collagen. In this study, the researchers decided to focus on introducing reactive groups onto the starch that could react with the collagen via stable bonds. A literature review showed that it is possible to introduce aldehyde groups onto the starch by periodate (NaIO4) oxidation (Figure 1). These dialdehyde starches that have reactive groups are used in a number of industrial applications such as paper, textile and pharmaceuticals, and should theoretically be able to bind to collagen via the reaction shown in Figure 2.

Figure 1. Dialdehyde starch formation by oxidation with periodate.

Figure 2. Aldehyde reaction with collagen.
This study was carried out to firstly oxidize starch with periodate to introduce dialdehyde groups, and then to characterise the different products obtained to determine their tanning performance.
Experimental
Various different sizes of dialdehyde starch were produced by oxidation of native starch with different molar ratios of periodate. These were then tested for tanning performance as follows:
1. Goatskins were de-pickled to a pH of 5.5.
2. 10% dialdehyde starch was added to the drum in a 100% float.
3. The drum was run for 120’.
4. Another 10% dialdehyde starch was added to the drum and the drum run for a further 120’.
5. The pH was raised to 7.5-7.8 at the end of the tanning process using sodium bicarbonate.
6. After tanning, the skins were retanned and fatliquored.
The tanning effect of the different sizes of dialdehyde starches produced was determined by shrinkage temperature. All leathers were also tested for tensile strength, tear strength and elongation at break.
Results
Tanning of the pelts with different molar sizes of dialdehyde starches resulted in an increase in the shrinkage temperature of between 25 and 29°C compared to the untanned pelt. It was also found that the thickness of the leather produced increased in conjunction with increasing molar ratio of the starch in the dialdehyde produced.
The physical properties of the leather produced from dialdehyde starch are shown in Table 1.

Table 1. Physical test results of dialdehyde starch tanned leather
The UNIDO recommended physical test results for goatskins are 20N/mm2 for tensile strength and 40N/mm2 for tear strength. It can be seen that the results obtained for the dialdehyde tanned goatskins exceed these specifications.
The leathers also exceeded the UNIDO recommendations for grain cracking, distention, and bursting.
After drying, the leather samples tanned with dialdehyde starch were found to be bone coloured, firm, and had a compact structure similar to vegetable tanned leathers. They did have a slightly rough surface feel.
Scanning electron micrographs (SEM) of the leather tanned with dialdehyde starch showed that the fibril bundles were separated, indicating that the dialdehyde starch was able to have a tanning effect on the goatskins. It was also found that the fibre separation increased with increasing oxidation of the native starch i.e., the larger molecular weight products produced better fibre separation and tanning.
Conclusion
The results of this study have shown that dialdehyde starch has a remarkable tanning effect and can be utilized as a tanning agent for making leather. It has several advantages as a tanning agent and the process produces less swelling, less astringency, no pebbled grain, and loss of area. The tanning process developed does not require a pickling process, and the avoidance of using acids and salts gives it an important advantage from an environmental point of view. The main advantage is that the starch used as the chief chemical in the process is derived from natural renewable resources that are biodegradable and thus has huge potential from a sustainability and environmental point of view.
This article is a summary of the paper “Alternative Tanning Agent for Leather Industry from a Sustainable Source: Dialdehyde Starch by Periodate Oxidation.” Journal of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (JSLTC) Vol 116, 89 - 99 (2021).
Footwear Industry Articles
- Effects of AI in developing the relationship between feet and footwear (part 1)Historically, theoretically and practically, our feet have played a significant role in the connection of the body to mother earth. We know that the foot is a hardy, adaptable and biomechanically efficient part of the anatomy, such that little else is required to ensure maximum traction, propulsion, stability, cushioning, shock absorption ...moreCity of Cape Town backs AllFashion Sourcing as it seeks to grow CTFL sectorCape Town, W. Cape, SA – AllFashion Sourcing Cape Town 2026 returns to Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC 2) from 14–16 July 2026, marking a significant milestone as the City of Cape Town joins as a key partner in advancing Africa’s fashion, textile and apparel sector.This partnership signals a shared visio ...moreObituary: Vic Jablowski, BUSM, Protech V (03/09/1953-11/12/2025): One of those who survived BU’s closureDurban, KZN, SA – My dad – was AMAZING.Born in 1953, he married Evelyn in 1979. My sister, Luanne Hough, was born in 1980, and I followed in 1983.A family man who made sure he supported his family in the most wonderful ways; he was also a loyal company man who worked most of his life for British United Shoe Machinery.But when ...more
Leather Industry Articles
- Sam Setter's 'Pills': Congratulations!Congratulations and compliments to UNIC and COTANCE for the huge job they have done together with LCHA, AHSLEA, Beef & Lamb New Zealand, TDSD, CICB, ALLPI, ICT, ICHSLTA, ICEC and SLF as well as many others by convincing the EU to scrap bovine hides from the EUDR directive. A long and tiring process which has cost them lots of time and ...moreMONEY FROM WASTEEurope has borne the difficulties and the costs of converting to a bioeconomy – the lessons are there, free, for African businesses to learn and profit from. ...moreImproving the strength and softness of crust leather through pressure treatmentIntroductionRetanning and fatliquoring have a major impact on the characteristics of leather, whereas dyeing and the finishing concentrate on the appearance of the leather. Various retanning agents and fatliquoring agents have been developed to improve the softness and mechanical strength of leather, parameters that are important to the b ...more
PPE Industry Articles
- Making fall protection practicalWorking at height is, by its nature, potentially dangerous. But only potentially. Properly planned and executed, working at height is safe. However, accidents and injuries are common.Part of the problem is that many – most – businesses do fall protection plans as tick box exercises. Industry can help by planning correctly, whi ...moreThe concepts behind safety: Why bother with PPE on the ‘Road to Zero Harm’?For over a decade, the ILO and other such bodies have been pushing this whole notion of "Zero Harm", "Road to Zero" and other such catchy titles, all pushing the idea most probably backed by one-sided research that "Zero Harm" is the only way and can be achieved if you work hard enough.My problem with this id ...moreRealPPE Marketplace: Where safety meets smarter procurementRealPPE Marketplace is a 100% black women-owned B2B PPE marketplace built for South African industry. Founded after years of witnessing safety officers and procurement teams lose time to fragmented suppliers, inconsistent pricing, and missing documentation, RealPPE was created to bring structure and reliability to industrial PPE sourcing. ...more








