‘We have and will continue to investigate sourcing opportunities for apparel’

 Cape Town, W. Cape, SA – H&M South Africa, “while not a R-CTFL Masterplan signatory, supports the plan’s goals to revitalise South Africa's clothing and textile industries”, it has told S&V.

The company, a subsidiary of the Swedish-headquartered global fast fashion retailer, H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB, and which has around 30 stores in SA, recently hosted the Sustainable Production Africa Summit in Cape Town. According to a release, the summit “brought together key stakeholders and experts from the clothing and textile value chain to discuss strategies for developing a sustainable and competitive local production industry … the summit focused on fostering collaboration and innovation, with an emphasis on creating a circular economy within South Africa’s clothing and textile sector. The goal is to position the country as a sustainable, profitable sourcing market for local and international retailers, while generating local employment.”

Challenged by S&V to say whether and how much clothing, footwear and leather goods and/or raw materials it sourced locally, and whether it is possible to reconcile fast fashion and sustainability, Lauren Hartzenberg of H&M’s press & communications department wrote:
“The majority of the wool and mohair that our suppliers source for creating our products come from South Africa, as well as some of the man-made cellulosic fibers. Our supplier list is publicly available … For business-sensitive reasons, we are unable to disclose specific volume and value figures.

“We at H&M Group, as well as the industry should make sure that we only produce what we can sell; what we sell should be of good quality that stands the test of time and be made of more sustainable materials. We should also explore new business models, so fashion is never seen as waste. We believe that an industry wide shift from a linear to a circular business model is the only sustainable solution. In a circular model, resources stay in use for as long as possible before being recycled into new products and materials.”
Pushed for specifics about local and African sourcing, and whether H&M is a signatory to the R-CTFL Masterplan for the apparel industry, she replied:

“Wool and mohair products form an ongoing part of our assortment, but volumes of course fluctuate depending on the season. Tunisia, Morocco and Egypt are among the countries that currently appear on our supplier list.

Mohair yarn. Image: Mohair South Africa

Angora goats, source of mohair. Image: Mohair South Africa

“Sourcing markets for H&M supply the group as a whole, and would not only supply stores in a single country. H&M South Africa therefore supports the development of a local production industry so that the country may become a viable sourcing destination for both local and international retailers. We have and will continue to engage with local industry stakeholders to investigate sourcing opportunities that align with our business and sustainability goals.

“While H&M is not a R-CTFL Masterplan signatory, we support the plan’s goals to revitalise South Africa's clothing and textile industries.”

The original press release read:

H&M Hosts Summit to Forge a Sustainable Future for South African Fashion Production

H&M South Africa recently hosted the Sustainable Production Africa Summit, bringing together key stakeholders and experts from the clothing and textile value chain to discuss strategies for developing a sustainable and competitive local production industry. Held at The Forum Embassy Hill in Cape Town, the summit focused on fostering collaboration and innovation, with an emphasis on creating a circular economy within South Africa’s clothing and textile sector. The goal is to position the country as a sustainable, profitable sourcing market for local and international retailers, while generating local employment.

Caroline Nelson, H&M South Africa’s Country Manager, opened the event by highlighting the industry’s progress towards sustainability. She noted H&M’s role in facilitating discussions and supporting the development of a sustainable, resilient clothing and textile industry that drives economic growth and job creation in South Africa.

Aligned with the H&M Group’s vision to leverage its scale and resources to lead the change in sustainable fashion production, the summit featured international speakers from H&M’s production team, who shared insights into securing the future of sustainable production and developing a globally competitive sourcing market.

Josef El Natour, H&M’s Head of Sustainable Production, outlined the company's sustainability goals, focusing on decarbonisation and circularity. He noted H&M’s commitments to reducing absolute greenhouse gas emissions by 56% by 2030 and achieving net-zero emissions by 2040, while aiming to power its operations with 100% renewable energy by 2030. “The future of manufacturing must be fossil-free and energy-efficient, with production processes that are waterless and free of harmful chemicals. We must also ensure that workers’ rights are protected,” El Natour stated. He shared H&M’s stance that decoupling financial growth from the use of finite natural resources will be essential for the sustainable future of the industry.

Hande Diltemiz, New Sourcing Markets Development Manager for Nearshoring at H&M, addressed the importance of building a globally competitive and sustainable supply chain that also leverages South Africa's unique strengths. She called for a collaborative roadmap that unites all stakeholders to drive innovation, sustainability, and social impact. She said that to achieve long-term sustainability, local supply chains must be resilient, competitive, and aligned with global standards.

Mike Mikkelborg, a fashion retail consultant, director and entrepreneur, highlighted the potential of local manufacturing to address South Africa’s unemployment crisis. He advocated for agile production models that prioritise speed, adaptability, and sustainability, while calling for alignment between retailers and manufacturers to ensure future success.

A panel discussion on advancing the Retail-Clothing Textile Footwear Leather (R-CTFL) Masterplan, featuring Michael Lawrence, Executive Director of the National Clothing Retail Federation of South Africa, and James Wilkinson, Chief Strategy Officer at TFG, explored the progress of this strategic framework. The panelists underscored the importance of collaboration between government, retailers, and manufacturers in driving local sourcing and integrating sustainability into business strategies.

Natasja Ambrosio, Sustainability Director at Mr Price Group and a Director of the Mr Price Foundation, highlighted the company’s efforts in pollution reduction, resource efficiency, and value chain development. She shared how the retail group is supporting the revitalisation of local cotton production and empowering communities through plastic recycling initiatives that turn waste into new products.

The summit also featured a dedicated panel discussion on Sustainable Approaches to Textile Waste, with contributions from Jackie May, Founder and Editor of Twyg; Jesse Naidoo, Founder of Clothes to Good; Tim Coles, Head of Sustainability at Sealand Gear; and Rayana Edwards, Founder of Sari for Change. The panel emphasised the need for waste prevention, ethical management, and positive social and economic impacts, while highlighting the role of both grassroots organisations and corporate action in driving systemic change.

The Sustainable Production Africa Summit hosted by H&M underscored the urgent need for collaboration, innovation, and commitment to sustainability in South Africa's clothing and textile industries. Through collective efforts, the industry can create a future-ready, circular economy that benefits both people and the planet.