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Keeping leather relevant for the future…

Published: 23rd Oct 2024
Author: By Deborah Taylor; MD; Sustainable Leather Foundation

Last month’s SLF article focused on the future of automotive leather and the changes being felt in the sector. This month, the focus is more generally around the crossroads that leather finds itself at, trying to hold on to the heritage of being one of the oldest industries on earth, while at the same time needing to be an industry of the future.

On paper, it should be a relatively simple justification, the hide or skin of an animal that is raised primarily for its meat and dairy products, is a waste material until the leather industry converts it into leather – in any other product category that would be called upcycling within a circular economy. It is the sustainable and responsible thing to do; to make use of that waste material and in doing so actively create a wealth generator economy that supports communities around the world with a billion dollar industry.

However, the processes and other input materials that are necessary to make that conversion take place, have a huge influence on our ability to regard leather as a sustainable material for the future. Key questions are raised about a number of sustainability risks and ethical behaviours such as deforestation, carbon emissions, use of hazardous chemistry, pollution of land, air and water, human rights, animal welfare rights, use of finite resources. The list is a long one but crucially many of those risks are already being mitigated or managed by our industry, and organisations like Sustainable Leather Foundation exist solely to support the stakeholders along our leather value chain to ensure that facilities are acting responsibly and ethically.

Providing clear pathways to more efficient processes, accessibility to new and emerging technologies and chemistries all help to transform our industry from old and polluting to modern and sustainable. It is no longer possible to just keep doing what has always been done, with local knowledge and techniques. It is imperative that the industry actively participates in inter-governmental platforms and dialogues, collaborates with NGOs and stays up to date with the latest advancements and regulatory directions. The industry needs to be seen as an active supporter of sustainable business and not a passive participant.

SLF’s Standards are now registered on the ITC Global Standards Map:

This last month SLF has achieved a significant milestone in ensuring that the leather industry is recognised as responsible and credible. SLF’s Environmental, Social and Governance Standards are now registered on the ITC Standards Map.

Following in depth review of the SLF standards and benchmarks, guidance notes, governance systems and procedures, the Foundation is delighted to announce that we are the first leather specific, standard setting and audit certification organisation to be published on the ITC Global Standards Map.

The Trade for Sustainable Development (T4SD) Programme at the International Trade Centre (ITC) of the United Nations is a partnership-based programme which empowers and equips micro, small and medium sized enterprises (SMEs) to improve their sustainability performance for better efficiency and international
competitiveness.

Navigating the constantly moving landscape of sustainability standards can be challenging. That’s why the United Nations have developed a range of tools, specifically tailored for the different actors along value chains, enabling them to make informed decisions, better understand the sustainability initiatives landscape and connect with like-minded business partners.

The Standards Map presents in-depth information on over 300 voluntary sustainability standards, applicable to sectors including agriculture, textile and garments, consumer products, forestry, mining and services. They are active in 192 countries and sorted across 1650 criteria. Find out more at www.sustainabilitygateway.org

The registration of SLF’s Environmental, Social and Governance Audit Certification programme is recognised as meeting all 17 of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and key themes covered include Human and Labour Rights, Due Diligence, Environment and Climate Change, Sustainable Business, Quality, Traceability and Credibility.

Having the governance infrastructure, systems and procedures for how the audit certificate programme is operated was a key component of the review conducted by ITC before registry on the Standards Map was approved. To visit the full profile and find out more about the Standards Map, click here: Sustainable Leather Foundation (standardsmap.org)

Work to Begin with Leather and Hide Council of America (L&HCA) and Africa Leather and Leather Products Institute (ALLPI):

In other news this month, SLF has been contracted to facilitate a project funded by L&HCA to provide training, assessments and audits with ALLPI member countries in Africa.

As part of the US Regional Agricultural Promotion Program, L&HCA is seeking to expand the capacity to export US hides and leather to target countries. A priority as part of that effort is to build in local capacity to be able use best practices in leather production and further export finished leather into the international market. To assist in developing this long-term capacity, L&HCA has committed to an ongoing training initiative, including a train-the-trainers element to ensuring meaningful long-term development for continued sustainable value.
The purpose is to build a structured approach on how a facility progresses from nothing to a world-class sustainability framework. This includes a toolbox that contains training, standards and benchmarks, pathway papers, templates, key factsheets on legislative and regulatory requirements, and other basic information.
The Sustainable Leather Foundation (SLF) will provide a systematic training, support and certification program with selected facilities within selected geographies. The SLF program will consist of Inception Workshops, Preliminary Inspection Visits, Guided Support, Formal Audit and Certification, and ongoing support. The work will require a phased approach that may span 18-24 months and will be phased to ensure that all regions and facilities have sufficient time to benefit from support. The first workshop will take place in Addis Ababa on 18-19th November 2024.

For more information about how Sustainable Leather Foundation supports the industry, you can visit our website: www.sustainableleatherfoundation.com or email us at info@sustainableleatherfoundation.com 

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