S&V Footwear & Leather Goods Magazine Vol89 No10 October 2023
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IN THIS ISSUE:
03 Focus
- Hello Quality: An accidental purchase lead to a new business with big ideas.
04 Exports & Trade
- Fashion World Tokyo: Products that are identifiably African attract interest.
06 Headlines with Tinashe Mandirahwe
- 30 million units sold, 1.2 billion Euros in sales in 1 year – Birkenstock’s remarkable story.
- From outsider to visionary – how Oliver Reichert reshaped Birkenstock.
- The hidden giant behind top brands: Stella International.
12 The Simac fair
- Desma: SA needs to play to its strengths, says René Muschalle.
- Volontè: Upgrade and diversify, says Felice Volontè.
- Ormac: Big or small, manufacturers need innovative machinery, says Gabriele Pauroso.
- PMC: Leather cutting, ‘TPR lite’ among the highlights, says Colin Parker.
14 Updates
- Certo Sports is new home for Olympic Footwear & Apparel and Racefood, says Gary van Rooyen.
15 Notice Board
- Obituary: Michele Di Lembo was a stickler for detail, writes his son, Pino.
- The Cobblers’ Lunch is no more. Some photos from the past.
18 Trade Statistics
- South Africa: August imports and exports of footwear and accessories, provided by SARS.
Advertisers in this Issue
Evolution Engineering (11), Freestyle Genuine Handcrafted Leather (02), Palm Footwear (OFC), Royal Adhesive Industries (07), Saddler Belts (08), SAFLEC (09), S&V Calendar (18), S&V Directory (14), The Authentic Brands Company/Shoemaker’s Choice (01).
The Next Issue:
- Out on 24 November.
- Hello Quality: An accidental purchase leads to a new business with big ideasCape Town, W. Cape, SA – Horse riding is mostly an elite activity, and it comes with specialised requirements – it’s not an industry you stumble into by chance.Not usually, anyway.In 2014, former Zimbabwean Pardon Gwenzi was running a bar at a golf club in Greenpoint, and with the cold Cape winter approaching, he and his ...moreFashion World Tokyo: Products that are identifiably African attract interestA series on successful South African footwear and leather goods exporters. Sponsored by the SA Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC).A South African delegation returned to Japan’s Fashion World Tokyo trade fair from 10-12 October, for the first time post-covid. Described as ‘Japan’s largest international fashion ...more30 million units sold, €1.243 billion in sales in just 1 year — the remarkable story of BirkenstockIn the ever-evolving world of fashion and footwear, Birkenstock has emerged as a true titan, boasting a performance that commands attention. The company sold a staggering 30 million units, amassing an impressive €1.243 billion in sales. While these numbers alone are enough to turn heads, the real story lies in the fact that Birkensto ...moreFrom outsider to visionary — how Oliver Reichert reshaped BirkenstockWhen Oliver Reichert assumed the role of CEO at Birkenstock in 2013, he brought something the iconic German footwear brand hadn’t seen in generations — an outsider’s perspective. This move was unconventional, and some may have questioned entrusting the legacy of a family-owned company to someone unfamiliar with the shoe ...moreThe hidden giant behind top brands: Stella International — is this company the barometer of what’s happening in footwear?I've stumbled upon something rather intriguing. It appears that Stella International, Hong Kong, is the manufacturer behind the scenes for several well-known footwear brands. The extent of their involvement in the industry is truly impressive, and I had no prior knowledge of this. ...moreDesma: SA needs to play to its strengthsSouthern Africa still has promise as a footwear manufacturing region – especially if it plays to its potential strengths and doesn’t try to outcompete the East on price, Desma Schuhmaschinen regional sales manager René Muschalle said.Although the PU moulding and robotic machinery manufacturer sells big ticket items, it& ...moreVolontè: Upgrade and diversify advice to SAVolontè System Conveyor director Felice Volontè believes South African footwear manufacturers have the potential to increase production “substantially”, and to grow their export business, but that they must upgrade their products, and diversify their production.He was an annual visitor to South Africa before covi ...moreOrmac: Big or small, manufacturers need innovative machineryMaking track machinery manufacturer Ormac has “made a lot of improvements over the last 10 years”, sales area manager Gabriele Pauroso said.Among the trends have been all-in-one solutions to reduce the space required for machinery. “We have competitors who are promoting robotics,” he said, “but those take up ...morePMC: Leather cutting, ‘TPR lite’ among the highlightsOn the shoe machinery side, Italy is holding its own. Companies that have been around for many years are positive for future trading. There are 2 reasons – China is slowing, and their manufacturers are concentrating on high tech industries mainly pertaining to electronic goods.. Also, the Italian government is assisting Italian shoe ...moreObituary: Michele Di Lembo – Villani Shoes (17/08/1939-01/08/2023) From training me to family lunches, a stickler for detailJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA – In loving memory of my dad, Michele Di Lembo, born on August 17, 1939, in Campolieto, Italy, and who peacefully departed on 1st August 2023. He ventured to South Africa in 1961, as a highly skilled shoe creator and cobbler, and worked as the factory manager at an Italian factory, Curtolo Shoes. He did not ...moreSIMAC: Technology for a better worldThis year’s crowded calendar of September fairs in Milan – Micam, Mipel, The One Milano, Lineapelle and Simac Tanning Tech – also included the 21st UITIC International Technical Footwear Congress. Across them all, innovation and sustainability were the dominant themes. In the background, the Ukraine war, the changing role of China, and fragile economies, impact sales. At Simac Tanning Tech, exhibitors supplying the tanning industry mostly said the fair went better than they had expected, while those supplying footwear and leather goods manufacturers were less sure. ...moreCerto Sports new home for Olympic Footwear & Apparel and RacefoodCape Town, W. Cape, SA – We have changed our name to Certo Sports (Pty) Ltd as an over-arching company. Under this name, we incorporate Olympic Footwear & Apparel and Racefood, the nutritional food bar brand.Olympic Footwear & Apparel We have made inroads into the likes of Sportsman’s Warehouse, Totalsports, The Athlet ...more
Footwear Industry Articles
- Drip Footwear’s financial crisis - a cautionary taleRapid Expansion BackfiresDrip Footwear, a once-promising South African sneaker brand, is facing a severe financial crisis that has sparked intense scrutiny and debate. The company’s rapid expansion into shopping malls has backfired spectacularly, leaving it with a R20 million debt, a foreign exchange blunder, and the looming threat ...moreSpringbok sponsors – and as a sports shop we can’t get a single jerseyPort Elizabeth, E. Cape, SA – What we hear is that both Nike and Adidas are losing sales internationally.Here, however, we’re affected by Nike’s Springbok sponsorship deal – as a sports shop, we can’t get a single Springbok rugby jersey or replica shirt. We couldn’t get them during the World Cup, we cou ...moreRelationships have to be more equalCape Town, W. Cape, SA – I’m sure Nike’s decision to drop so many retailers can’t have helped their recent performance, but I don’t know how much damage that did to them.It was mostly motivated by the opportunity to double their markup – that’s the only reason that makes sense. But what they didn& ...more
Leather Industry Articles
- Sam Setter's 'Pills': For readers who need some wry medicinal humour" You can’t help those who don’t help themselvesThe International Trade Centre in Geneva spent a large amount of money in order to analyse the leather value chain in Mongolia. An extensive value chain study was made from the raising of the animals up to the finished product. The ITC presented a strategy proposal to the Go ...moreEnzymatic removal of proteoglycans in hides promotes opening-up of collagen fibre bundlesIntroductionWhen a hide loses moisture, the proteoglycans present in the hide stick the collagen fibres together. This negatively impacts the penetration of water and other chemicals into the hides during processing, and also the opening-up of the collagen fibres and hence the softness of the leather. It is therefore ideal to remove prote ...moreA gentle, decent man who contributed to a better environment professionally and personallyObituary: Roger Alec Rowswell – Somerset West Municipality, Cape Town Municipality, Leather Industries Research Institute, Tannery Environmental Consultancy Services (12/01/1948 – 20/08/2024) ...more
PPE Industry Articles
- Transitioning to climate-friendly construction: Bio-concrete and biogenic construction materials with cyanobacteriaDresden, Germany (01 July 2024) – Fraunhofer researchers have developed a method of creating biogenic construction materials based on cyanobacteria. The bacteria multiply in a nutrient solution, driven by photosynthesis. When aggregates and fillers such as sand, basalt, or renewable raw materials are added, rock-like solid structure ...moreDangee Carken enters safety footwearJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA – Fashion footwear company Dangee Carken has entered the safety footwear market with its Grittgear brand.Safety footwear industry veteran Mark Silverman has joined as a director of Dangee leading its safety division.“With three decades in the workwear industry, I have gained an in-depth understanding ...moreGeorge disaster highlights the importance of compliance and the right people partnerCape Town, W. Cape, SA (19 June 2024) – The catastrophic collapse of a near-completed building under construction in George in May 2024, which resulted in at least 34 fatalities and many more injured, has shone a spotlight on the need for compliance. This includes health and safety compliance as well as industrial relations (IR) and ...more
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