S&V African Leather Magazine Vol18 No2 February 2024
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IN THIS ISSUE:
02 Sam Setter’s ‘Pills’
- A new quip from Sam Setter in each issue.
04 Upfront
- Among other things, an SLF audit is reassurance for our customers, says new Nakara MD Max Schaefer.
- After 3 years ‘in the wilderness’, APLF returns to its Hong Kong roots in time for its 40th anniversary.
- Bader SA and Karan Beef continue their long-standing hide agreement.
- In a difficult era for trophy hunting, Pieter Swart heads both SATTA and SUCo-SA.
- Tops Exotic Leather processes Zambia’s lower croc grades for local leather goods manufacturers.
- Leather technician Björn Jonsson leaves to take up post in France.
11 An Eclectic View
- Crocodiles everywhere! A look at the effect of crocodilian farming on the status of various species in the wild, by H. Procter.
- A simple – but nuanced – answer: Yes, farming has benefited some crocodilians, says Crocodile Specialist Group co-chair Charlie Manolis.
13 Decoding Tanning Science
- The effect of calcium concentration in delimed hides on the efficiency of bating, by the ISTT’s Dr Clive Jackson-Moss.
12 Weights & Measures
- Compiled by the ISTT.
13 Sustainability
- February workshops in Zimbabwe, by Sustainable Leather Foundation MD Deborah Taylor.
17 Agriculture
- The crucial role of crop diversification in SA’s agricultural future, by FNB’s Paul Makube.
17 Animal Welfare
- Reports by the NSPCA:
- Red Sea terror attacks back stand against live export by sea.
- Lions burnt and left to suffer.
19 Trade Statistics
- SA hides, skins, and leather trade statistics for December 2023, issued by SARS.
Advertisers in this Issue
APLF (03), Authenticae (05), International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) (07), Mimosa (10), Rolfes Leather Division (xx), S&V Calendar (01), S&V Directory (15), Southern African Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC) (09), Stahl (OFC), Sustainable Leather Foundation (02).
The Next Issue
- The March issue of S&V African Leather will be out on 20 March. The deadline for contributions is 13 March.
- Nakara: SLF audit ‘reassurance for customers’Windhoek, Namibia – I have been appointed MD of Nakara Tannery & Manufacturing as of January, and I am pleased to report that Nakara has been audited by the Sustainable Leather Foundation and that it is now an SLF compliance partner.With regards to the benefits and learnings during the auditing process:The SLF auditing process b ...moreIn a difficult era for trophy hunting, Pieter Swart heads both SATTA and SUCo-SAPretoria, Gauteng, SA – Pieter Swart, the current President of the SA Taxidermy & Tannery Association (SATTA), was elected as the Sustainable Use Coalition Southern Africa (SUCo-SA)* Chairman late in 2023. He entered the wildlife industry as a part time professional hunter and outfitter in the early 90s shortly after ...moreTops: Processing lower crocodile skin grades for local leather goods market, aimed at touristsKafue, Zambia – Topsoil General Dealers was registered as a company in 2009 as a raw hides and skins trading company. The company supplies good quality raw hides and skins to local tanneries to be processed into leather as a way of value addition.The raw hides not fit for leather processing are sundried and exported for food t ...moreCrocodiles everywhereA recent paper in the Journal of Coastal Research has sparked interest in the value that environmental services play in a local economy (van Heerden and Snyder, 2013). Anyone would have predicted that there is economic value in keeping wild areas intact.The American alligator was under direct threat in 1973 - listed as EN (endangered) on ...moreThe effect of calcium concentration in delimed hides on the efficiency of batingPart 2. The effect of calcium content on the enzymatic bating, elastin removal and collagen degradation of delimed hides (Editor’s note: Part 1 was in S&V African Leather, Vol. 17, No. 11, November 2023, and is available on the website, www.svmag.co.za) ...moreFebruary workshops in ZimbabweOn 12-13th February SLF deliverED a 2-day workshop in Harare, Zimbabwe where tanneries from Zimbabwe, Madagascar and Zambia cAme together to participate.This was a continuation of the work under the SIPS project that began last year, and the last issue of S&V African Leather reported on the positive results of the work already complet ...moreSam Setter's 'Pills': For readers who need some wry medicinal humourThe EU bureaucracy is often a pain in a certain place (just ask the European farmers) because its directives are often interfering with tradition at great loss for small enterprises, always favouring big (multinational) companies. This time the EU centred the bullseye with the Green Claim Directive, EUGCD, which if implemented, would be a ...moreAPLF returns to Hong Kong for its 40th anniversaryThe 2024 edition of APLF Leather will be held at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from 19 - 21 March, concurrently with its sister events, Materials+ and Fashion Access.The importance of APLF as ‘the meeting place of the global leather industry’ is borne out by the combination of institutional and comme ...moreBader, Karan hide agreement continuesBader SA and Karan Beef have confirmed that the agreement whereby Bader SA buys all Karan Beef hides is still in place.Karan, which is a vertically integrated feedlot, abattoir and meat wholesaling business, slaughters around 2 000 cattle per day. The hides are third party wet blue tanned.Bader SA COO Robert O’Connell said the ...moreLeather technician Björn Jonsson leaves SAI'm sad to say that after 33 years I have left SA for France because the work in SA was not as fulfilling as it was in the past. I'm now working for CET outside Juvardeil in Western France. CET is part of a large abattoir group, Bigard, which is the largest meat processor in France.CET is a wet blue plant supplying wet blue and wet white ...moreA simple – but nuanced – answer: Yes, farming has benefited some crocodiliansCharlie Manolis is chief scientist at Wildlife Management International in Karama, Northern Territory, Australia, and he is also a co-chair of the CSG. Below, he says crocodilian farming has more-or-less eradicated poaching, but that other human pressures threaten many crocodilian species.rn ...moreEU Green Claims Directive (EUGCD):In other news, on Wednesday 17th January 2024, the EU overwhelmingly voted for the adoption of the Green Claims Directive, with 593 votes in favour, 21 against and 14 abstentions. The Directive that is designed to prevent companies from misleading consumers through “greenwashing” or vague marketing claims, will now go for Cou ...moreThe crucial role of crop diversification in SA’s agricultural futureJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA (30 January 2024) – The agricultural landscape is undergoing a significant transformation as the traditional practice of mono-cropping, where a single crop variety is planted extensively across vast tracts of land, is rapidly fading. Sustainable crop production now demands urgent attention towards diversify ...moreRed Sea terror attacks against shipping back stand against live export by sea as ship forced to turn backJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA (23 January 2024) – The NSPCA reiterates its unwavering stance against the live export of animals by sea, emphasising the severe implications on animal welfare. The recent incident involving the MV Bahijah, an Australian live export ship stranded amid deteriorating security in the Middle East, un ...moreLions burnt and left to sufferJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA (06 February 2024) – The National Council of SPCAs (NSPCA) attended to the Fairy Glen Nature Reserve in Worcester, Western Cape to assist 3 illegally kept lions that were severely burned during wild fires in the area. Grace de Lange, NSPCA Chief Operations Officer explains that “1 male and ...moreSA hides, skins, and leather trade statistics for December 2023Pretoria, Gauteng, SA (31 January 2023) – Source: SARS. https://www.sars.gov.za/wp-content/uploads/Docs/TradeStats/2023/8784Nov/Media-Release-November-2023.pdfIncluding Botswana, Eswatini, Lesotho and Namibia (BELN)Cumulative tradeTrade balance R'm (649 586 236)Ratio (exports/imports) 0.87Monthly tradeTrade balance R'm (91&nbs ...more
Footwear Industry Articles
- National Leather and General Goods Strategy WorkshopOn 23 June, following months of fieldwork, B&M Analysts (BMA) hosted an online workshop to discuss the recovery of the handbags, belts, travel goods and allied manufacturing industries in SA.The industries, although very diverse, fall under the General Goods & Handbags Sector of the National Bargaining Council of the Leather Indus ...moreObituary: Joe McGinley, Conshu (14/04/1936-20/05/2026) He ran an empire, but kept a human touchSomerset West, W. Cape, SA – Joseph Pascal McGinley, the former Conshu director who died in May, a month after his 90th birthday, was a larger-than-life character who was renowned during his career in SA for his kindness, and who lived life to the full.Born in Letterkenny, Donegal, Ireland, to Joseph and Madeline McGinley, both doct ...moreLemaitre’s Robust Pro, ‘based on user feedback, is a gamechanger in safety footwear’Lemaitre, a trusted leader in safety footwear, is proud to announce the launch of the New Robust Pro, a reimagined safety shoe designed to deliver unparalleled comfort, durability, and all-around protection for workers across industries. With the Robust Pro we set out to create a shoe that truly works as hard as the people who wear it by ...more
Leather Industry Articles
- Improving the strength and softness of crust leather through pressure treatmentIntroductionRetanning and fatliquoring have a major impact on the characteristics of leather, whereas dyeing and the finishing concentrate on the appearance of the leather. Various retanning agents and fatliquoring agents have been developed to improve the softness and mechanical strength of leather, parameters that are important to the b ...moreLEATHER’S ELEMENTARY UNITGeoff Attenburrow’s PhD student David M. Wright worked on the behaviour of leather under strain (Attenburrow, 1993; Wright, 1996). They were the first to describe that leather had a “co-operating unit”, a set of structures within leather that helped the leather to resist breaking and to resist deformation at low strain.T ...moreMobilising Africa’s human resource to reinvigorate the regional leather value chainIn last month’s edition I wrote about mobilising Africa’s livestock to reinvigorate the regional leather value chain, and this article is focussed on mobilising the human resource that is needed to make the most of the abundant livestock populations in the region.On Friday 12th June, newly organised SARLEN (Southern African Re ...more
PPE Industry Articles
- Statistical shape modelling for population-specific respirator design: Addressing fit failure in South African populationsRespirators are widely regarded as the last line of defence against hazardous airborne exposures. Whether protecting healthcare workers from tuberculosis, laboratory personnel from infectious samples, or workers exposed to carcinogenic dusts and fumes, respirators are often relied upon when other controls cannot eliminate exposure. This r ...moreChina-made firefighting equipment now needs verification of conformity with SANS standardsPretoria, Gauteng, SA – Firefighting equipment is among the 25 product categories published on 01 April by the Department of Trade, Industry and Competition for a mandatory Pre-Export Verification of Conformity (PVoC) Programme.The system will require certain goods shipped from China to be tested and certified before they enter the ...moreOccupational noise-induced hearing loss ‘is the most prevalent occupational disease in the world’Occupational noise-induced hearing loss (ONIHL) is the most prevalent occupational disease in the world*. 16% of all disabling hearing loss in adults is due to noise exposure.It’s also expensive. According to one study, it costs US$242 million in annual compensation in the USA. In the UK, the typical cost per claim in the is £ ...more
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