S&V African Leather Magazine Vol18 No2 February 2024
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IN THIS ISSUE:
02 Sam Setter’s ‘Pills’
- A new quip from Sam Setter in each issue.
04 Upfront
- Among other things, an SLF audit is reassurance for our customers, says new Nakara MD Max Schaefer.
- After 3 years ‘in the wilderness’, APLF returns to its Hong Kong roots in time for its 40th anniversary.
- Bader SA and Karan Beef continue their long-standing hide agreement.
- In a difficult era for trophy hunting, Pieter Swart heads both SATTA and SUCo-SA.
- Tops Exotic Leather processes Zambia’s lower croc grades for local leather goods manufacturers.
- Leather technician Björn Jonsson leaves to take up post in France.
11 An Eclectic View
- Crocodiles everywhere! A look at the effect of crocodilian farming on the status of various species in the wild, by H. Procter.
- A simple – but nuanced – answer: Yes, farming has benefited some crocodilians, says Crocodile Specialist Group co-chair Charlie Manolis.
13 Decoding Tanning Science
- The effect of calcium concentration in delimed hides on the efficiency of bating, by the ISTT’s Dr Clive Jackson-Moss.
12 Weights & Measures
- Compiled by the ISTT.
13 Sustainability
- February workshops in Zimbabwe, by Sustainable Leather Foundation MD Deborah Taylor.
17 Agriculture
- The crucial role of crop diversification in SA’s agricultural future, by FNB’s Paul Makube.
17 Animal Welfare
- Reports by the NSPCA:
- Red Sea terror attacks back stand against live export by sea.
- Lions burnt and left to suffer.
19 Trade Statistics
- SA hides, skins, and leather trade statistics for December 2023, issued by SARS.
Advertisers in this Issue
APLF (03), Authenticae (05), International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) (07), Mimosa (10), Rolfes Leather Division (xx), S&V Calendar (01), S&V Directory (15), Southern African Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC) (09), Stahl (OFC), Sustainable Leather Foundation (02).
The Next Issue
- The March issue of S&V African Leather will be out on 20 March. The deadline for contributions is 13 March.
- Nakara: SLF audit ‘reassurance for customers’
Windhoek, Namibia – I have been appointed MD of Nakara Tannery & Manufacturing as of January, and I am pleased to report that Nakara has been audited by the Sustainable Leather Foundation and that it is now an SLF compliance partner.With regards to the benefits and learnings during the auditing process:The SLF auditing process b ...moreIn a difficult era for trophy hunting, Pieter Swart heads both SATTA and SUCo-SA
Pretoria, Gauteng, SA – Pieter Swart, the current President of the SA Taxidermy & Tannery Association (SATTA), was elected as the Sustainable Use Coalition Southern Africa (SUCo-SA)* Chairman late in 2023. He entered the wildlife industry as a part time professional hunter and outfitter in the early 90s shortly after ...moreTops: Processing lower crocodile skin grades for local leather goods market, aimed at tourists
Kafue, Zambia – Topsoil General Dealers was registered as a company in 2009 as a raw hides and skins trading company. The company supplies good quality raw hides and skins to local tanneries to be processed into leather as a way of value addition.The raw hides not fit for leather processing are sundried and exported for food t ...moreCrocodiles everywhere
A recent paper in the Journal of Coastal Research has sparked interest in the value that environmental services play in a local economy (van Heerden and Snyder, 2013). Anyone would have predicted that there is economic value in keeping wild areas intact.The American alligator was under direct threat in 1973 - listed as EN (endangered) on ...moreThe effect of calcium concentration in delimed hides on the efficiency of bating
Part 2. The effect of calcium content on the enzymatic bating, elastin removal and collagen degradation of delimed hides (Editor’s note: Part 1 was in S&V African Leather, Vol. 17, No. 11, November 2023, and is available on the website, www.svmag.co.za) ...moreFebruary workshops in Zimbabwe
On 12-13th February SLF deliverED a 2-day workshop in Harare, Zimbabwe where tanneries from Zimbabwe, Madagascar and Zambia cAme together to participate.This was a continuation of the work under the SIPS project that began last year, and the last issue of S&V African Leather reported on the positive results of the work already complet ...moreSam Setter's 'Pills': For readers who need some wry medicinal humourThe EU bureaucracy is often a pain in a certain place (just ask the European farmers) because its directives are often interfering with tradition at great loss for small enterprises, always favouring big (multinational) companies. This time the EU centred the bullseye with the Green Claim Directive, EUGCD, which if implemented, would be a ...moreAPLF returns to Hong Kong for its 40th anniversaryThe 2024 edition of APLF Leather will be held at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from 19 - 21 March, concurrently with its sister events, Materials+ and Fashion Access.The importance of APLF as ‘the meeting place of the global leather industry’ is borne out by the combination of institutional and comme ...moreBader, Karan hide agreement continuesBader SA and Karan Beef have confirmed that the agreement whereby Bader SA buys all Karan Beef hides is still in place.Karan, which is a vertically integrated feedlot, abattoir and meat wholesaling business, slaughters around 2 000 cattle per day. The hides are third party wet blue tanned.Bader SA COO Robert O’Connell said the ...moreLeather technician Björn Jonsson leaves SAI'm sad to say that after 33 years I have left SA for France because the work in SA was not as fulfilling as it was in the past. I'm now working for CET outside Juvardeil in Western France. CET is part of a large abattoir group, Bigard, which is the largest meat processor in France.CET is a wet blue plant supplying wet blue and wet white ...moreA simple – but nuanced – answer: Yes, farming has benefited some crocodiliansCharlie Manolis is chief scientist at Wildlife Management International in Karama, Northern Territory, Australia, and he is also a co-chair of the CSG. Below, he says crocodilian farming has more-or-less eradicated poaching, but that other human pressures threaten many crocodilian species.rn ...moreEU Green Claims Directive (EUGCD):In other news, on Wednesday 17th January 2024, the EU overwhelmingly voted for the adoption of the Green Claims Directive, with 593 votes in favour, 21 against and 14 abstentions. The Directive that is designed to prevent companies from misleading consumers through “greenwashing” or vague marketing claims, will now go for Cou ...moreThe crucial role of crop diversification in SA’s agricultural futureJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA (30 January 2024) – The agricultural landscape is undergoing a significant transformation as the traditional practice of mono-cropping, where a single crop variety is planted extensively across vast tracts of land, is rapidly fading. Sustainable crop production now demands urgent attention towards diversify ...moreRed Sea terror attacks against shipping back stand against live export by sea as ship forced to turn backJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA (23 January 2024) – The NSPCA reiterates its unwavering stance against the live export of animals by sea, emphasising the severe implications on animal welfare. The recent incident involving the MV Bahijah, an Australian live export ship stranded amid deteriorating security in the Middle East, un ...moreLions burnt and left to sufferJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA (06 February 2024) – The National Council of SPCAs (NSPCA) attended to the Fairy Glen Nature Reserve in Worcester, Western Cape to assist 3 illegally kept lions that were severely burned during wild fires in the area. Grace de Lange, NSPCA Chief Operations Officer explains that “1 male and ...moreSA hides, skins, and leather trade statistics for December 2023Pretoria, Gauteng, SA (31 January 2023) – Source: SARS. https://www.sars.gov.za/wp-content/uploads/Docs/TradeStats/2023/8784Nov/Media-Release-November-2023.pdfIncluding Botswana, Eswatini, Lesotho and Namibia (BELN)Cumulative tradeTrade balance R'm (649 586 236)Ratio (exports/imports) 0.87Monthly tradeTrade balance R'm (91&nbs ...moreFootwear Industry Articles
- Wayne's Phambili range: Practical boots from non-safety to full protection
Roodepoort, Gauteng, SA – Wayne's Phambili range combines everyday comfort, dependable durability and clearly defined levels of protection in a practical range of PVC work boots. Developed for demanding working environments, the 3-boot lineup makes it easy to choose the protection best suited to the job while delivering the comfort ...moreManufacturer-buyer event: Results still to be tallied, but broad enthusiasm for more
The 2-day Retail Buyer Engagement & Manufacturer Onboarding Programme on 01 and 02 July was part of an effort to kickstart the R-CTFL Masterplan – which, from a footwear perspective at least, has appeared stalled.It was sponsored by the International Labour Organisation (ILO) and implemented through the R-CTFL Masterplan Footwea ...moreKen Riches: Reflections on an extraordinary life: Those who can, do – those who can do it even better, teach
It’s been 18 years this month since Ken Riches died. Here is a glimpse into what lay under that fairly protective exterior.Ken Riches, one of our country’s true footwear experts, passed peacefully on to that final production line in the sky on 11 August 2008. He had lived through the rapidly changing times from just after the ...more
Leather Industry Articles
- World first - compost: Possible, desirable, not necessarily simple
The world of compostable leather is not as historically accurate as the industry would like it to be. The definition of leather is: “hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible (rot-proof). Hair or wool may or may not have been removed, and the material can include split layers or ...moreBeyond the data trap: Why better decisions matter more than just more data
On 1st July 2026 I presented at the FILK Leather Days conference and asked the delegates to consider “Sustainability through a new lens: resetting how we view impacts in the leather value chain”. This month’s article therefore explores this idea a little more with a focus on how we view data and whether it can blind us t ...moreSam Setter's 'Pills': You have to be very clever to understand this document, but hopefully it will do some goodIn June, UNIDO launched an impressive document called “Guideline”. It is a very detailed, environment oriented, technical and scientific document where the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and Corporate Carbon Footprint (CCP) play a prominent role. The document, peer reviewed, has been developed for UNIDO with the main contributor ...more
PPE Industry Articles
- Performance testing: Building credibility in the modern apparel and footwear market
The lines between protective wear, sportswear, outdoor apparel, wellness clothing and everyday fashion continue to blur. Consumers increasingly expect garments and footwear to deliver more than style alone. Whether purchasing workwear, running apparel, outdoor footwear, school shoes or everyday casual products, buyers now look for comfort ...moreObituary: Colin Battle, agent (17/04/1957-27/07/2026): Our sales trips were a whole life experience
Dearest Lee, Greg & Sammy,I send my sincerest condolences & wishes of long and healthy lives to all of you, after the passing of your beloved Colin. I’ve no doubt that once the pain of losing an adored husband and father starts to subside, you will be left the glorious memories of your lives together with a most wonderful an ...moreOccupational noise-induced hearing loss ‘is the most prevalent occupational disease in the world’
Occupational noise-induced hearing loss (ONIHL) is the most prevalent occupational disease in the world*. 16% of all disabling hearing loss in adults is due to noise exposure.It’s also expensive. According to one study, it costs US$242 million in annual compensation in the USA. In the UK, the typical cost per claim in the is £ ...more
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