S&V Footwear & Leather Goods Magazine Vol90 No2 February 2024
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IN THIS ISSUE:
03 Upfront
- The R-CTFL Masterplan, 5 years on: It’s done nothing for us, most footwear sources claim, but plan’s backers say they ‘need to engage more’.
- The confusing story behind woven fabrics: Tariff codes – correctly applied – offer in-depth information on what goes into products, but they can make duties very complicated.
- The manufacturers’ experience: Bata SA’s growth ‘has nothing to do with Masterplan’; ‘Our chain business has shrunk dramatically over the 5 years,’ says another.
- A chain’s view: TFG – ‘We’re buying more in SA and SADC, but if we can’t find what we want here, we import.’
- MBA thesis research: Strategies for footwear startups – ideas and input requested, by George Newton.
13 Headlines with Tinashe Mandirahwe
- New Balance ventures into Cambodia.
- North America: The largest and most attractive clothing and footwear market, according to BMI report.
- Bison leather boots by Patagonia – a tale of innovation, conservation, and craftsmanship.
- India and South Africa’s footwear markets today – a tale of contrasting fortunes.
19 Export & Trade
- Magic: Lots of news about African pavilion, but we can’t get hold of it.
- Rowdy Bags: Wrong hall, but useful all the same.
17 Trends
- ‘Tactical footwear poised for growth,’ writes Tinashe Mandirahwe, and he picks out Southern African firms as examples.
23 Notice Board
- Obituary: Mussa Hajat, Footwear Centre – Malawi’s Mr. Footwear.
23 Trade Statistics
- South Africa: December imports and exports of footwear and accessories, provided by SARS.
Advertisers in this Issue
APLF Fashion Access (04), APLF Materials + (05), Arena Trims (08), Freestyle Genuine Handcrafted Leather (OFC), Haesloop Agencies (10), Kaytex Belts (12), Leather Finishing Products (14), Partisan & Co/Palladium/Ben Sherman (01), Saddler Belts (06), SAFLEC (09), S&V Calendar (15), S&V Directory (11), Seadoone Shoes/Solite (02), Shotland Packing (17).
- New Balance ventures into Cambodia
New Balance, the footwear and apparel brand, has expanded its global presence with the opening of four stores in Cambodia. The management of these stores falls under MAP Active Cambodia, a sports and lifestyle brand importer and distributor, as reported by The Phnom Penh Post.Strategic Partnership with MAP Active CambodiaNew Balance& ...moreNorth America — the largest and most attractive clothing and footwear market globally — BMI report
The latest BMI Report unequivocally positions North America as the largest and most attractive clothing and footwear market globally. Companies in the industry should recognize the immense opportunities awaiting them in this dynamic market.Why North America Is So AttactiveThe North American region’s appeal is grounded in a ...moreBison leather boots by Patagonia — a tale of innovation, conservation, and craftsmanship
Here's a story that speaks of a journey from America, where buffalo hides are tanned, to Portugal, where value is added by transforming the leather into boots. The journey then returns to America, where these boots are sold for a whopping $429! The story touches on topics such as research and development, storytelling marketing, niche marketing and more. Most importantly, I'm hoping the story will illustrate the possibilities that exist in the industry. ...moreRowdy Bags: Wrong hall, but useful all the same
Cape Town, W. Cape, SA – Director Adam Young said Rowdy Bags has been in business for 12 years, and is already a consistent exporter. Its principal markets are in the UK and Switzerland, followed by Australia and Germany, and together they account for 30% of Rowdy Bags’ business by turnover? / units?“Export is the way fo ...moreTactical footwear poised for growth
To prove a point – that Southern African footwear manufacturers can be part of the global industry, contributor Tinashe Mandirahwe, a former Zimbabwean now writing from Canada, has chosen South African and Zimbabwean examples to illustrate a global trend. “Tactical footwear covers diverse applications,” he writes. “They can be drivers of growth.” ...moreMalawi’s Mr Footwear: Obituary: Mussa Hajat – Bata Malawi, Footwear Centre (27/09/1933-22/01/2024)
Blantyre, Malawi – My father, Mussa Hajat, passed away in the early hours on Monday 22 January 2024, aged 90.He was still fully active and working up until Christmas.He was affectionately known as Mussa Footwear and was a true giant in the footwear scene in this country ever since he left Bata and established his own business in 196 ...moreThe R-CTFL Masterplan, 5 years on: It’s done nothing for us, most footwear sources claim, but plan’s backers say they ‘need to engage more’Has the R-CTFL Masterplan, launched 5 years ago, done anything to increase local procurement of footwear and leather goods by the chains that agreed to be part of it?It depends on who you ask, and the answers are very different.In the ‘yes’ corner is Michael Lawrence, who wears 2 hats – as director of the National Clothi ...moreThe confusing story behind woven fabrics: Tariff codes – correctly applied – offer in-depth information on what goes into products, but they can make duties very complicatedAt the request of the PMO Core, and on behalf of clothing manufacturers, SARS has lifted the 22% import duty on woven fabrics, which includes some PU-coated woven fabrics used for footwear – an apparently significant saving.However, these footwear products, which fall under tariff code 5903.20.90, were already subject to rebate, mea ...moreThe R-CTFL Masterplan, 5 years on: The manufacturers’ experienceS&V asked 16 footwear manufacturers to comment on any growth in their orders from chains – especially those that are part of the NCRF, which was a signatory to the Masterplan – since its launch 5 years ago. 2 manufacturers answered. ...moreBata SA: Growth has nothing to do with MasterplanS&V asked 16 footwear manufacturers to comment on any growth in their orders from chains – especially those that are part of the NCRF, which was a signatory to the Masterplan – since its launch 5 years ago. 2 manufacturers answered. ...moreThe R-CTFL Masterplan, 5 years on: Anonymous: Our chain business has shrunk dramatically over the 5 yearsThis manufacturer requested anonymity.Since the inception of the Masterplan 5 years ago, we have not seen an increase in orders from local retailers.With the exception of 2022, we have experienced a decline in orders every year, 2023/2024 being the largest reduction. Over the past 5 years our local orders have reduced by 47% in pairs ...moreThe R-CTFL Masterplan, 5 years on: A chain’s viewS&V had planned to ask a number of chains the following questions. In the event, we only asked TFG:In the 5 years since the signing of the charter in 2019, have any of your chains bought more locally made footwear, and can you quantify that growth by pairs and value?Have any of your chains REDUCED their local footwear buy?By compariso ...moreThe R-CTFL Masterplan, 5 years on: TFG: We’re buying more in SA and SADC, but if we can’t find what we want here, we importIn support of government’s 2030 Retail - Clothing Textile Footwear and Leather (R-CTFL) masterplan, TFG remains committed to building and growing our local manufacturing capability and capacity. In unit terms, more than 76% of our products are produced locally, in SADC or South Africa. By investing in and prioritising local producti ...moreMBA Thesis Research: Strategies for footwear startups – ideas and input requestedIntroductionThis is a request to the footwear community in South Africa to take part in a research project titled: Enhancing Sustainable Innovation Adoption in Footwear Startups in South Africa.Project DescriptionThe project focuses on the South African footwear industry, particularly startups in the sector. It recognises the pressing nee ...moreMagic: Lots of news, but we can’t get hold of itFor the first time, the Las Vegas Magic show featured an African Textiles and Apparel Pavilion, hosting 68 exhibitors from 35 countries, and organised and sponsored by the U.S. Agency for International Development’s Africa Trade and Investment programme (USAID ATI) and theProsper Africa US Trade & Investment initiative.The ...moreSA footwear & accessories trade statistics for December 2023Pretoria, Gauteng, SA (31 January 2024) – Source: SARS.Including Botswana, Eswatini, Lesotho and Namibia (BELN)Cumulative tradeTrade balance R'm (13 795 684 796)Ratio (exports/imports) 0.24Monthly tradeTrade balance R'm (962 390 982)Ratio (exports/imports) 0.31ExportsMonth % of total 0.26Cumulative 2022 (R'm) 3 ...moreFootwear Industry Articles
- NikeSKIMS — A game-changer or just smart marketing?
Nike and SKIMS are teaming up to launch NikeSKIMS, a new activewear brand debuting this spring. Nike, a leader in sportswear, brings its athlete-focused innovation, while SKIMS, Kim Kardashian’s brand known for shapewear and body-inclusive designs, adds its style and fit expertise.This partnership promises to combine performanc ...moreA fortune later, AVI pulls the plug on Green Cross
Remaining stores to close, wholesale reduced to run out stock ...moreChallenges in the global footwear market amid economic strainDiscussions in Hong Kong: At a recent network session with fellow Footwear Council members from a few other countries while at the APLF, the topic for discussion revolved around the almost flat line and dip seen in manufacturing and exports with no significant increase.Of course, the likes of India and a few others commented on thing ...more
Leather Industry Articles
- Country hides and skins: Changed markets for a forgotten source
Changes in the global leather market have impacted most on the bottom rung of the leather value chain – ‘country’ hides and skins. This was starkly illustrated when S&V African Leather received a call from someone in the Eastern Cape who had previously made a living collecting them for sale to agents acting on behalf of hide and skin collectors. The agents were still there, he said, but they weren’t interested in buying what he had to offer. Where should he look?rnrn A call to trader Gareth Diesel in East London, who works for and with Elliott Brothers and its subsidiary, East London Abattoir, confirmed that market had died in the province.rnrn He suggested we ask Greg Feinberg, MD of SA’s biggest hide and skin trader, pickler and wet blue tannery, Cape Produce Company, for ‘the bigger picture’. ...moreThe Fairs - Sam Setter's 'Pills': For readers who need some wry medicinal humourWe have just had the pleasure of the celebration of the world's major leather fairs, Lineapelle and APLF. Both fairs have been considered well attended though business was apparently not brilliant. However, have you noticed that the fairs are more and more shifting from the exhibition and business purpose to a conference venue, an instrum ...moreThe journey of Ali Hakimi: A career path defined by leather
My career journey is a testament to a passion for craftsmanship. I was born and raised in Tehran, Iran, and completed my high school education in 1974. Shortly thereafter, I spent two years working in my father's engineering company, where I was exposed to numerous industries. It was during this time that I discovered my interest in leath ...more
PPE Industry Articles
- Understanding respirator PPE
The subject of Respirator Personal Protective Equipment is confusing until one understands the basic concept requirements.OHS Act defines Respiratory Protective Equipment as a device which is worn over at least the mouth and nose to prevent the inhalation of air borne hazardous chemical substances and which is of a type or conforms to a s ...moreA partnership for inclusion: Circular Energy and Bradshaw LeRoux join forces for disability inclusionCircular Energy is partnering with Bradshaw LeRoux, a disability inclusion specialists organisation, to forge a disability-positive workplace. ...moreNew standard for PFAS assessment for consumer products ‘is useful for manufacturers, consumers, laboratories, and regulators’W. Conshohocken, Pa., U.S. (07 January 2025) – A new ASTM International standard will provide users with a road map for planning and executing assessments of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in consumer products and articles. The new standard, which will be published as F3700, was developed by ASTM&rsqu ...more
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