S&V African Leather Magazine Vol18 No3 March 2024
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IN THIS ISSUE:
02 Sam Setter’s ‘Pills’
- A new quip from Sam Setter in each issue.
04 Upfront
- After 47 years and some change, Exotan/Cape Karoo International’s Jerome Ingenhoes retires.
- Drought leads to shortage of elephant hides for exotic leather tanners in Zimbabwe, writes Johnny Kleynhans.
05 An Eclectic View
- Apprentices, not graduates. The future of training in the leather industry has changed with the closure of the University of Northampton’s Institute for Creative Leather Technologies, writes H. Procter.
- SA-based former Nene College graduates Granville Steyn and Ali Hakimi mourn the passing of an era.
08 Leather, Its Image & Its Place In The World
- Deforestation is the number risk topic facing our industry, writes the Sustainable Leather Foundation’s Deborah Taylor.
- Sustainability issues will be core focus for new Leather & Hide Council of America president Kerry Brozyna.
- Leather and other ‘natural’ materials unite to promote their image through a design competition.
13 Technology
- Upgrading vacuum dryers on a budget – Turato Ricambi’s Paolo Turato explains the benefits of the Italian company’s new developments, Raptor and Velocis.
14 Weights & Measures
- Compiled by the ISTT.
15 Agriculture
- Farming for the future with modernised systems, by Schneider Electric’s Clive Roberts.
16 Trade Statistics
- SA hides, skins, and leather trade statistics for January 2024, issued by SARS.
Advertisers in this Issue
Authenticae (03), International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) (07), Mimosa (OFC), Rolfes Leather Division (09), S&V Calendar (01), S&V Directory (02), Southern African Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC) (10), Sustainable Leather Foundation (04).
The Next Issue
- The April issue of S&V African Leather will be out on 13 April. The deadline for contributions is 02 April.
- Jerome Ingenhoes Retirement
Port Elizabeth, E. Cape, SA – Jerome Ingenhoes, one of the best-known personalities in the world ostrich industry, sent this WhatsApp message earlier this month: “After 17,261 days work, at last pension! Cheers.” We hope he will write about his time in the industry for a forthcoming issue. ...moreApprentices, not graduates
Some time has passed now since the world has heard that Nene College (aka the University of Northampton's Institute for Creative Leather Technologies, ICLT) is to close. This is an unmitigated disaster, and the industry is thinking of the staff (past and present) who have poured their hearts and souls into that department who are now due ...moreDeforestation is the number one risk topic facing our industry
Traceability is the key, and the danger is that noncompliance will lead to brands moving further away from leather as a material choice because it’s too challenging to source ...moreLeather and other ‘natural’ materials unite to promote their image through design competition
The Leather & Hide Council of America, along with U.S. associations representing wool, timber, cotton, hemp and mohair, have started a design competition to promote the ‘natural’ materials promoted by the sponsors. Deadline for entries is 31 May.rnrnFrom an African and South African perspective, it’s not easily accessible because it is only open to “students in higher education or designers who have graduated in the past year”, and it specifically bars exotic leathers including the crocodile and ostrich leather which are among this region’s strengths. rnrn ...moreRaptor and Velocis – upgrading vacuum dryers on a budget
Turato Ricambi 1968 Srl specialises in producing spare parts, upgrades and boosters for vacuum dryers made by other machinery manufacturers. It claims to prolong the life of vacuum dryers and enhance their performance, both at a much lower cost than investing in new equipment. Here, director Paulo Turato explains the benefits of its latest products, Raptor and Velocis. ...moreFarming for the future with modernised systems
According to a new report by the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO), Tracking progress on food and agriculture-related SDG indicators 2023,15 years since the establishment of the Agenda 2030 for Sustainable Development, agriculture-related targets have stagnated or regressed. Furthermore, major Pan-European manufactu ...moreSam Setter's 'Pills' For readers who need some wry medicinal humourThe leather industry is unfairly targeted by the green lobby, says Sam Setter, but the industry should do more to help itself."I mean, how stupid are we???!!! Various organisations that claim to represent the leather industry aim, in their words, to save the earth, forcing responsibilities upon this industry that it doesn’t hav ...moreDrought leads to elephant hide shortageBulawayo, Zimbabwe – For a couple of reasons, the consultancy Legacy Exotic Leather Specialists (LELS) hasn’t progressed since it opened in January.The first is getting through the licensing bureaucracy, the more serious is the prevailing shortage of raw elephant hide.We will however continue with consultancy and age ...moreReaction from local former studentsGranville Steyn, Leather Business Manager, DyStar Africa (Pty) LtdPietermaritzburg, KZN, SA – I started as a lab assistant way back in 1980 at The Western Tanning Company, in Wellington under Messrs. Gerald Tutt and Alan Sykes, just to mention a couple. In the meantime, Chris Black was already studying at Nene College, and on his re ...moreSustainability issues will be core focus for new L&HCA presidentWashington DC, U.S. (20 February 2024) – The Leather & Hide Council of America (L&HCA) has appointed Kerry Brozyna as Acting President, effective June 2024. He brings significant experience in brands, manufacturing and international supply chain management as he moves from Wolverine Worldwide (WWW), where he served as Vice P ...moreSA hides, skins, and leather trade statistics for January 2024Pretoria, Gauteng, SA (29 February 2024) – Source: SARS. https://www.sars.gov.za/wp-content/uploads/Docs/TradeStats/2024/Jan4125/Media-Release-January-2024.pdfIncluding Botswana, Eswatini, Lesotho and Namibia (BELN)Cumulative tradeTrade balance R'm (139 726 231)Ratio (exports/imports) 0.67Monthly tradeTrade balance R'm (139&nb ...moreFootwear Industry Articles
- A ‘mouse’, who was in every way outsized - Obituary: Tony Jelinski – Everflex Manufacturing (19/10/1945-16/03/2025)
Tony Jelinski – who was also known as Mighty Mouse and whose personality, friendships and business acumen were a lot bigger than the biggest mouse you have ever seen.Due to my age of 84, I am the dinosaur of the partners of the PMC Group, of which Everflex, Tony’s sphere, was such a big part.I was responsible for getting Tony ...moreHail-fellow, well-met, in a genuine way - Obituary: Denis Manning – Kronies Footwear, Trenzado Footwear (29/03/1954-18/03/2025)
Sadly, Denis Manning passed away on Tuesday, 18 March after a battle with cancer, 11 days before his 71st birthday.Denis arrived in South Africa with his wife, Jane, in March 1976 and settled in Pinetown. He joined Kronies as a trainee factory manager and worked there for many years, firstly with Hans Krohn and Doug Roberts and then ...more40 000 retail doors could close by 2029, but footwear stores could hold their ownAgainst a backdrop of store closings, shoe retailers UBS analyst Michael Lasser favours include On Holding, Deckers, Dick's and Academy Sports. ...more
Leather Industry Articles
- Eagle Italian businesses ‘set to reopen’
Marondera, Zimbabwe – Eagle Italian Leather (Pvt) Ltd and Eagle Italian Shoes (Pvt) Ltd, which operate as a combined tanning and footwear manufacturing business and which were set up about 20 years ago to supply the Zimbabwean Government with military boots, are expecting to reopen, director Francesco Marconati said this month.He sa ...moreThe use of copper nanoparticles to prevent bacterial and fungal growth on leather
IntroductionBiocides and fungicides are used at different stages of the leather-making process. However, bacteria and fungi are still able to grow on finished leather, and especially vegetable tanned leather. The reason for this is that sweat from footwear can act as a carbon source for microbial growth, or that the concentration of fungi ...moreWhen there are so many real issues to be concerned about, why pick on an industry which does much more good than harm?While some animal welfare organisations are the prime motivators behind anti-leather campaigns, they rely on others to cave in to their campaigns. London Fashion Week this year banned reptile leather. ...more
PPE Industry Articles
- Understanding respirator PPE
The subject of Respirator Personal Protective Equipment is confusing until one understands the basic concept requirements.OHS Act defines Respiratory Protective Equipment as a device which is worn over at least the mouth and nose to prevent the inhalation of air borne hazardous chemical substances and which is of a type or conforms to a s ...moreSwitch to updated standard: Footwear suppliers given time limit to run out old stockPretoria, Gauteng, SA – Safety footwear suppliers have until April 2026 to sell stock made to the 2014 edition of SA National Standard (SANS) 20345.The National Regulator for Compulsory Standards (NRCS) confirmed this at a stakeholder meeting on 11 March.The SA National Standard (SANS) for safety footwear in South Africa was upgrade ...moreSGS to host 'Discovering PPE softlines solutions’ on 27 MarchGeneva, Switzerland – Testing, inspection and certification company SGS is hosting a complimentary webinar, ‘Discovering PPE softlines solutions’, on 27 March 2025.The global market for personal protective equipment (PPE) is expanding, but it is also becoming more regulated. Businesses looking to ensure product complianc ...more
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