S&V African Leather Magazine Vol18 No4 April 2024
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IN THIS ISSUE:
02 Sam Setter’s ‘Pills’
- A new quip from Sam Setter in each issue.
03 An Eclectic View
- Artificial Intelligence: Much has been written about AI, so correspondent H. Procter tried it out to put together an article on the future of the tanning industry – and found it, frankly, underwhelming.
06 Decoding Tanning Science
- The potential of water hyacinth as a source of vegetable tannins: The ISTT’s Dr Clive Jackson-Moss reviews a paper about a problem plant – and South Africa has tons of it to get rid of.
08 Leather, Its Image & Its Place In The World
- Tanners worry whether they can make leather profitably if they switch to sustainable methods, writes the Sustainable Leather Foundation’s Deborah Taylor. The truth is that they won’t be able to make leather at all without it.
- Proposed trade bans on game skins and hunting trophies threaten South Africa’s job creating and wildlife conserving game industry, writes Sustainable Use Coalition chairman Pieter Swart.
13 Technology
- Keep control of the data, and all else follows – Hüni AG Process Controls’ Everton Mateus Jacobsen explains the benefits of the company’s DataCollect and Advanced Planning System solutions.
17 Weights & Measures
- Compiled by the ISTT.
18 Sustainability
- Archroma, G-Star RAW and Advance Denim unite to develop cleaner denim production.
19 Fairs & Events
- Successful APLF return to Hong Kong ‘tempered by slow market demand’.
- As leather seeks to claw back share from sneakers, ‘ACLE has the role of reinvigorating China’s industry’.
21 Agriculture
- Sappi’s Pelletin achieves feed safety assurance certification for its lignin-based animal feed additive.
- SA beef exports hit 7-year high in January.
Advertisers in this Issue
All China Leather Exhibition (ACLE) (07), Authenticae (05), Hüni AG Process Controls (OFC), International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) (09), Mimosa (12), Rolfes Leather Division (16), S&V Calendar (01), S&V Directory (04), Southern African Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC) (19), Sustainable Leather Foundation (02).
The Next Issue
- The April issue of S&V African Leather will be out on 10 May. The deadline for contributions is 06 May.
- AI: understanding required
This article is a hybridisation between an artificially generated article and an editor’s contributions in blue. The article was generated using Chat GPT 3.5 and Deepai.org for the image.rnrnChat GPT was asked the question: rnPlease write 1200 words on how human thinkers in the tanning industry will be replaced by artificial intelligence going forward. ...moreThe potential of water hyacinth as a source of vegetable tannins
IntroductionDepending on the type of leather being produced, hides and skins are normally tanned using either a mineral or a vegetable tanning process. Chrome tanning accounts for more than 90% of the world’s leather production, but there is concern over the environmental impact of this tanning method. Vegetable tanning is a more en ...moreHow to make sustainability pay?
In our modern business landscape, sustainability is no longer just a buzzword; it is a fundamental aspect of corporate responsibility and long-term viability. However, many companies in the leather value chain still struggle to reconcile the seemingly conflicting goals of profitability and sustainability. The consistent misconception is t ...moreInternational trade bans threatening SA exports
The Chairman of the Sustainable Use Coalition (SUCo-SA), Pieter Swart, attended various local and international events recently. He says this report on the state of the wildlife Industry “is a mixture of hope and concern”. ...moreKeep control of the data, and all else follows
Horgen, Switzerland – Tanneries rely on complex machinery and an extended supply chain to process hides, which takes several months to a year from when the hides depart the slaughterhouse until the finished hides reach the final customer. Despite advances, most of the leather industry's supply chain operates in traditional methods t ...moreArchroma, G-Star RAW and Advance Denim promote cleaner denim production
Pratteln, Switzerland (03 April 2024) – With the aim to help the denim industry reduce the environmental impact of its wastewater and move towards circularity, three leaders from across the denim supply chain have renewed their joint commitment to the production of aniline-free denim apparel based on Archroma’s Denisol Pure In ...moreSappi’s Pelletin achieves feed safety assurance certification for its lignin-based animal feed additive
Johannesburg, Gauteng, SA (19 March 2024) – Sappi Southern Africa has achieved GMP+ Feed Safety Assurance (FSA) 2020 certification for Pelletin, one of its lignin-based products used as an additive in animal feed manufacturing. This makes Sappi the second organisation in Africa to attain this certification.GMP+ is the world’s ...moreSouth African beef exports hit 7-year high in January
South African beef exports have shown strong growth over the last year. In January, they achieved their highest level in seven years.South Africa has a vibrant agricultural sector, and the local livestock and meat industry is no exception.A 2021 AgriSETA report stated that South Africa accounted for over 21% of the total meat produced in ...moreSam Setter's 'Pills': For readers who need some wry medicinal humourItalian Finance police raided in Northern Italy a Chinese leather goods manufacturing laboratory, where they found unbelievably dire hygienic, living and labour conditions as well as a crew of illegal (Chinese) workers. The laboratory was found to be producing leather bags for one of the famous top fashion brands. The brand announced imme ...moreSuccessful APLF return ‘tempered by slow market demand’After a 5-year absence, APLF returned to its home base in Hong Kong to celebrate the 40th year of its launch in 1984.Due to low prices and slow demand for leather, especially in the footwear sector, pre-fair expectations were mixed and somewhat muted. At the same time, there were hopes that the return of APLF could give the flagging marke ...moreAs leather seeks to claw back share from sneakers, ‘ACLE has the role of reinvigorating China’s industry’Shanghai, China (20 March 2024) – The 2024 All-China Leather Exhibition will take place from 03 – 05 September at the New International Expo Centre in Pudong, Shanghai. The event covers a total exhibition area of 92,000 m² and 8 halls of international and domestic tanneries, materials, machinery and chemical suppliers.The ...moreFootwear Industry Articles
- Challenges in the global footwear market amid economic strainDiscussions in Hong Kong: At a recent network session with fellow Footwear Council members from a few other countries while at the APLF, the topic for discussion revolved around the almost flat line and dip seen in manufacturing and exports with no significant increase.Of course, the likes of India and a few others commented on thing ...moreA practical joker, honest and generous in all things – except maybe biltong
Obituary: Howard Charles Patterson-Roberts – footwear agent (22/06/1951-08/03/2025) ...moreMasterplan at a halt – for now, anywayCape Town, W. Cape, SA – The R-CTFL Masterplan – at its most visible level – has come to a halt.The government-funded contract for the project co-ordinators, B&M Analysts (BMA), ended at the end of last year, and has thus far not been renewed.That has meant that the weekly and monthly PMO meetings, the interface betw ...more
Leather Industry Articles
- RETANNING CHEMISTRY - LEFTOVERS
The fundamental function of retanning has been to impart the final crust leather properties to the leather. The strength, softness, grain break, crust resistance (sweat, fastness, water spotting), fullness, drape, roundness, run, and nap properties; are common properties imparted by a typical retannage. The traditional leather science tex ...moreThe subjective nature of auditing
This month’s article has a personal perspective, perhaps you might say a subjective perspective, and that is the challenge of applying consistent approaches and standards to auditing. I’m speaking here from recent personal experience – names and organisations are excluded for obvious reasons, but the case study is real. ...moreSam Setters Pills: Audits and reality aren’t always the same thingOn the last day of 2024 I read a very interesting article on Reuters’ website which I want to share with you hoping it is still available https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/inside-luxury-goods-broken-audit-system-2024-12-31/The article focusses on two important issues, being the lack of transparency of part of the ...more
PPE Industry Articles
- A partnership for inclusion: Circular Energy and Bradshaw LeRoux join forces for disability inclusionCircular Energy is partnering with Bradshaw LeRoux, a disability inclusion specialists organisation, to forge a disability-positive workplace. ...moreSouth Africa’s first safety escape room for hands-on health and safety training
South Africa's first safety escape room was set up at Phalaborwa Mining Company (PMC) in November last year by health and safety solutions provider KBC.“We required a fresh approach to training,” said Mabore Macheru, Manager in Training Development and Contractor Management at PMC. “This offers an interactive and practic ...moreThe recipe for success and safety - the strategic value of ISO 22000 certification in the food industry
Durban, KZN, SA (08 January 2025) – In today's increasingly globalised food industry, consumer trust and product safety is everything, but businesses must go beyond mere compliance and strive for excellence to thrive in this competitive context. ISO 22000 certification offers a strategic solution to achieve these goals, providing th ...more
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