S&V African Leather Magazine Vol18 No5 May 2024
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IN THIS ISSUE:
02 Sam Setter’s ‘Pills’
- A new quip from Sam Setter in each issue.
03 Upfront
- Why leather factories in Jinja have closed: Report from Ugandan publication The Monitor shows how government interference in forcing beneficiation is killing Uganda’s leather industry.
- Leatherite: More competition for a smaller pie.
- Footwear: School shoes, niche areas okay, fashion struggling.
- Kenyan Government announces creation of jobs in the leather industry.
03 Training
- The debate – and heat – over he closure of ICL needs to end, and there are ways forward: A 3-way conversation between Dr Christine Anscombe, Dr Clive Jackson-Moss and Karl Flowers.
03 An Eclectic View
- Carbon Neutral: Correspondent H. Procter reports on changes to stop the corruption caused by carbon off-setting.
08 Leather, Its Image & Its Place In The World
- Africa continues to call, writes the Sustainable Leather Foundation’s Deborah Taylor, following a busy programme of auditing tanneries in Madagascar, Malawi, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, with preliminary visits to others.
- ALLPI joins the SLF.
- Deborah Taylor elected as new vice-president of the SLTC.
13 Technology
- The Predator – a new concept in splitting. Alpe Spak explains the labour saving, safety and improved quality benefits of its new system.
17 Weights & Measures
- Compiled by the ISTT.
18 Notice Board
- Obituary: Ken Moakes, bon vivant, raconteur and fine leather technician.
- Recognition for long-serving SLTC secretary Pat Potter.
Advertisers in this Issue
All China Leather Exhibition (ACLE) (07), Authenticae (05), International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) (09), Mimosa (12), Rolfes Leather Division (16), S&V Calendar (01), S&V Directory (04), Southern African Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC) (19), Stahl (OFC), Sustainable Leather Foundation (02).
The Next Issue
- The April issue of S&V African Leather will be out on 14 June. The deadline for contributions is 10 June.
- Government announces creation of jobs in leather industryNarok Souh, Kenya (07 April 2024) – The government has announced creation of direct and indirect job opportunities in the leather industry in Narok County in the south rift.Making the disclosure at Ewaso Ngiro tannery in Narok South sub county, Cabinet Secretary for East African Community, Arid and Semi-Arid Lands and Regional Devel ...moreWhy leather factories in Jinja have closedJinja, Uganda (Monday 06 May 2024) – Four leather factories in Jinja City have closed, leaving hundreds of former workers unemployed.The factories are SWT Leather Industries located on Mutibwa Road, Mehaka Leather Exim Smc Limited, Uganda Leather and Tannery Industries, Jinja, and Loyal Small-Scale Industries located on Nile Crescen ...moreThe debate – and heat – over the closure of ICLT needs to end, and there are ways forwardIn a fascinating 3-way Teams discussion (4, but I was just an observer) last month between SATRA’s Dr Christine Anscombe, the ISTT’s Dr Clive Jackson-Moss and Authenticae’s Karl Flowers, the likely future of training in the tanning industry in Europe, and in countries which traditionally sent students to Europe, took som ...moreCARBON NEUTRALIn 2015, the international community signed a climate treaty called the Paris Climate Accords. 195 countries, including South Africa, signed the accord pledging to do everything in their governments’ powers to halt the increase in temperatures, and to in principle keep the total increase in average temperatures to less than 2ºC ...moreAfrica continues to call…Strengthening Sustainability: The conclusion of the year-long project in the Southern African Development Community (SADC) region, under the Joint Action “Support towards Industrialization and the Productive Sectors” (SIPS). ...moreALLPI Joins Sustainable Leather FoundationSLF is delighted to confirm that Africa Leather and Leather Products Institute has become a member which further enhances the commitment to supporting the African nations with sustainable development. ...moreDeborah Taylor elected as new Vice-President of the Society of Leather Technologists & Chemists (SLTC)On Saturday 27th April, during the SLTC Annual Conference and AGM, SLF’s Managing Director, Deborah Taylor, was officially elected as the incoming Vice-President of SLTC. ...moreThe Predator: A new concept in splittingArzignano, Vicenza, Italy – Alpe Spak’s new through-feed splitting machine system, the Predator, has been designed to reduce the number of specialised operators, improve worker safety, and improve the quality of the leather.It operates with a patented concept to split in green, lime and now also wet blue.It was developed from ...moreObituary: Ken Moakes – Fredisco, TFL, Buckman, C.F. Stead, Thomas Ware (28/12/1944-22/04/2024): Bon vivant, raconteur, and fine leather technicianNorthampton, UK – Ken Moakes died in April, after a short time in hospital, aged 79, of cardiac and renal failure.To me, starting out with African Leather magazine, He was both advisor and friend. He and the late Barry Nash (and unnamed others) would send me a monthly gossip column on the leather trade – never malicious, but g ...moreSam Setter's 'Pills': For readers who need some wry medicinal humour"The world has become a crazy place. We are not thinking anymore autonomously but are influenced against our better knowledge about matters that are clear lies but we are induced to accept them as the truth. I looked it up and it’s called ‘double thinking’. People are told to live a sustainable bio-based life and ar ...moreLeatherite: More competition for a smaller piePretoria, Gauteng, SA – The leather crafting market has picked up, starting last October, but is still nowhere near as buoyant as before or immediately after covid, said Kevin Thompson, director of leather, trims and tools supplier Leatherite International.“Most of last year was a bit tough,” he said. “You can see ...moreFootwear: School shoes, niche areas okay, fashion strugglingCape Town, W. Cape, SA – On the fashion side local manufacturers in general are finding business quite tough. There are manufacturers operating in “niche” areas of the market that are doing quite well.On a more positive note, our school shoe manufacturers seem to be doing okay. On the industrial side we do not really ope ...moreLong overdue pat on the back for PatNorthampton, UK – I have just finished my time as a volunteer at the museum where Ken was a volunteer. Once again it has all been packed away only for some bits to occasionally be on show at the town museum and other places who are more interested than Northampton - makes me so cross!!I seem to keep busy. I am scanning SLTC back jou ...more
Footwear Industry Articles
- ‘Growth in online gambling may be big factor in siphoning off disposable income’East London, E. Cape, SA – Trading conditions are constrained and steady. We need to focus on good quality products at reasonable prices / value. We are optimistic about the direction of the overall economy in RSA.As a wise man once said regarding growing a business: “Sometimes you have to move slowly to be able to move fast.& ...moreComrades Expo 2026Durban, KZN, SA – The exhibitor list at the Comrades Expo, from 11-13 June, has shown an evolution in the types of companies exhibiting. Just 1 running footwear supplier, Ikhambi Distribution, promoting its Hoka brand, was there.Technical sock suppliers, however, were well represented, with Balega, Falke, Sox Footwear and The Hirst ...moreNational Leather and General Goods Strategy WorkshopOn 23 June, following months of fieldwork, B&M Analysts (BMA) hosted an online workshop to discuss the recovery of the handbags, belts, travel goods and allied manufacturing industries in SA.The industries, although very diverse, fall under the General Goods & Handbags Sector of the National Bargaining Council of the Leather Indus ...more
Leather Industry Articles
- LEATHER’S ELEMENTARY UNITGeoff Attenburrow’s PhD student David M. Wright worked on the behaviour of leather under strain (Attenburrow, 1993; Wright, 1996). They were the first to describe that leather had a “co-operating unit”, a set of structures within leather that helped the leather to resist breaking and to resist deformation at low strain.T ...moreMobilising Africa’s natural livestock resource to reinvigorate the regional leather value chainAfrica possesses one of the world’s largest livestock populations, yet the continent captures only a fraction of the value generated from leather and leather-based products. From cattle in the East and South Africa, to goats and sheep across North Africa, the continent’s abundant livestock resource represents not only a source ...moreImproving the strength and softness of crust leather through pressure treatmentIntroductionRetanning and fatliquoring have a major impact on the characteristics of leather, whereas dyeing and the finishing concentrate on the appearance of the leather. Various retanning agents and fatliquoring agents have been developed to improve the softness and mechanical strength of leather, parameters that are important to the b ...more
PPE Industry Articles
- Making fall protection practicalWorking at height is, by its nature, potentially dangerous. But only potentially. Properly planned and executed, working at height is safe. However, accidents and injuries are common.Part of the problem is that many – most – businesses do fall protection plans as tick box exercises. Industry can help by planning correctly, whi ...moreThe legal ramifications: PPE and the law: Ignore at your peril?There’s no shortage of legislation covering employee safety in South Africa, but as in so much else, the enforcement is poor.In terms of our laws, the death of an employee (or anyone else) in a work situation, caused by negligence, is treated as culpable homicide. An injury caused by negligence is also a criminal act – that, b ...moreProtecting the workforce: The critical role of PPEPersonal protective equipment (PPE) is utilised in a work-environment as part of a larger prevention plan, because on its own protection is limited and may even provide a false sense of protection.An occupational disease prevention plan must be an actionable approach that identifies workplace health hazards, evaluates exposure, and i ...more
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