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- Superbalist explains acquisition of The Athlete’s Foot, and future plansSV Q&A With David Cohen, CEO of Superbalist Group of CompaniesQ. Please confirm the acquisition, including when it took place.A. We recently acquired The Athlete’s Foot South Africa in September 2025; we’re really excited about it. It’s a strong, well-loved brand and it fits into what we’re building across the ...moreChange of executive director for SAFLIADurban, KZN, SA – SAFLIA is to have a change of executive director next year when Jirka Vymĕtal retires after a handover period to Zamani Oliphant.Vymĕtal joined SAFLIA in March 2014. He said the aim was to retire by end April to ensure “a smooth and thorough handover”.Oliphant, who is an attorney, will start on 01 Feb ...moreAsics SA appoints new GMCape Town, W. Cape, SA (07 November 2025) – Asics South Africa has appointed Sean van Wyk as its new GM on 01 January. He replaces Barry Mellis.Asics’ director emerging markets EMEA, Stefan Heinrich, said in statement: “Barry has been leading our business operations in South Africa successfully since 2018 making Asics a ...moreDickies sale completedNew York, U.S. (12 November 2025) – Brand management company Bluestar Alliance has completed its acquisition of workwear and lifestyle brand Dickies from VF Corporation. It said in a release that “the addition of Dickies reinforces Bluestar Alliance's position as one of the world's leading brand management firms, bridging ...moreVeldskoen: ‘Recovering, but US exports on hold’Cape Town, W. Cape, SA – Veldskoen Shoes, which went into business rescue in July, “is trading much better than it was when we started”, BR practitioner Julian Empedocles, of Almaz Consulting, said on Friday.“There’s been an amazing turnaround. I decided to move the business back from Woodstock to its origina ...moreKnock out the knockoffs: Protecting your brand against imitationsCounterfeiting is no longer confined to imitation designer goods sold in back-alley markets. It has become a widespread and organised trade that threatens fair competition and the rights of legitimate businesses. At its simplest, counterfeiting means the deliberate manufacture and sale of goods calculated to resemble genuine branded produ ...moreKeeping it in the familyBoksburg, Gauteng, SA – During 2022/23 my wife fell ill with Covid and we decided to get our daughter, Tania Ellis, involved in the business to enable me to spend more time with Alice. Alice eventually passed away 17th January 2024 after 55 years of married life and as we’re all getting older, I decided to keep Tania on, with ...moreObituary: Colin Pedlar – Reflex Footwear (Pty) Ltd (08/04/1946-18/07/2025) : Whatever he did, he did calmly, thoroughly, and wellI met Colin Pedlar for the first time when we had the opportunity to take over a production plant in Lesotho.It was quite a daunting prospect starting a new business in a foreign country.Colin was very involved right from the start and tackled every hurdle calmy, from negotiating with the Lesotho Government to moving machinery to Lesotho. ...moreIncreased minimum duties application – SAFLIA ‘keeps nagging’Umhlanga, KZN, SA – SAFLIA’s application to the International Trade Administration (ITAC) to increase the minimum duty on most imported footwear, from R5/pair to R20/pair, and in the case of safety footwear, to R50/pair, is still “in the process”, according to SAFLIA executivedirector Jirka Vymĕtal, speaking last ...moreObituary: Ernie Wallis, Sheq Safety (14/07/1959 – 16/08/2025): In all things, hard, fair and respectedCape Town, W. Cape, SA – Ernie was raised in a strong, principled household. Ernie’s father – a naval man with sharp business acumen and a steady temperament – and his mother, who was uncompromising in her pursuit of fairness, instilled in him the values of discipline, justice, and integrity that would define his l ...moreUpdated safety footwear standards: No clarity after marathon meetingPretoria, Gauteng, SA – South African safety footwear manufacturers and importers will have to wait until 08 October to get answers from the National Regulator for Compulsory Specifications (NRCS) after a 3-hour, 30-minute Microsoft Teams ‘stakeholder meeting’ on 11September overran its timeslot – and that was afte ...moreFidelity acquires SSG Holdings to grow to nearly 70 000 staff over more than 250 locationsJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA (17 September 2025) – Fidelity Services Group has acquired a majority shareholding in SSG Holdings, following all requisite regulatory approvals. The acquisition will expand Fidelity’s footprint to more than 256 locations and grow its workforce to approximately 69 200 employees across Southern Africa. ...moreTrading conditions - September 2025: It’s Spring, the season of new hopeJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA – Retail in South Africa is not for the faint-hearted. Retailers across the country have felt the strain — from potholes that go unrepaired, to water outages in our homes and in the shopping centres where we operate, to the load shedding that still lingers in outlying areas of the country. Every day b ...morePepkor go-ahead for Retailability chainsPretoria, Gauteng, SA – The Competition Tribunal has conditionally approved the proposed merger in which Pepkor Trading (Pty) Ltd will acquire the retail brands and businesses of Retailability (Pty) Ltd i.e. Legit, Style, Swagga (including the Beaver Canoe brand) and Boardmans. Once the merger is implemented, Pepkor Trading will ass ...moreDeath notice: Colin PedlarCape Town, W. Cape, SA – Retired former footwear manufacturer Colin Pedlar died after a long illness on 18 July 2025, aged 79. An obituary will follow in the September issue of S&V Footwear & Leather Goods. ...moreSAFLEC 23rd AGM, 06 August 2025, Umhlanga, KZN: Extracts from the reportsSAFLEC 23rd AGM, 06 August 2025, Umhlanga, KZN: Extracts from the reports ...moreHandbag course: Adding the polish to encourage exportsDurban, KZN, SA – The South African handbag manufacturing industry holds significant export potential, “yet it currently receives relatively little intervention”, in the view of SA Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC) director Nerisha Jairaj.“Over the past few years, I’ve realised that our handbags ...moreCommitted to supporting these sectorsThe eThekwini Footwear Leather Cluster (EFLC) is aimed to empower local manufacturers, and we’ve managed to implement programmes as per our business plan (i.e. export development, market access, world class manufacturing, product design & development and sustainability).EFLC also launched the Retail New Market Project to acceler ...moreISTT updates tannery wastewater treatment courseGrahamstown, E. Cape, SA – Following the registration of Australian students, and as part of its conversion to a distance education/online international leather training provider, the International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) has updated its tannery wastewater treatment course.In conjunction with Johan Barnard’s Enviro ...moreMall group backs new shoe retailer with a visionBenoni, Gauteng, SA – Cossen, a micro footwear manufacturer-cum-retailer founded by entrepreneur Nelisiwe Cossa, is 1 of 5 new entrepreneurs being helped to establish itself as a viable business by shopping centre group Vukile Property Fund in its Daveyton Mall in Benoni.Having herself learnt the basics of design, pattern cutting an ...moreLIRI - ORIGINS AND ENDThe Leather Industries Research Institute (LIRI) was a research, education and training provider located on the Rhodes University campus, based in Grahamstown, Eastern Cape. In 1938, the Rhodes University College initiated a small, but successful tanning/hides/skins section in the Chemistry Department. The department was formed as a resp ...moreA call to action: Invest in Ethiopia’s Leather Value ChainAfrica is moving towards greater integration, towards opportunity, and towards self-sustaining growth through the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA).This presents a timely and strategic opportunity for Ethiopia to leverage its natural renewable resources, its growing technological base, and its skilled workforce to take its plac ...moreEthiopia’s LISEC project, 8 years onIn 2018, the United Nations industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO) launched its ‘Leather Initiative for Sustainable Employment Creation Project’ (LISEC) in Ethiopia. Funded by the European Union (EU), which invested €13.75 million, the project has been centred around Modjo City.It has focused on reducing migration by ...moreACLE, new Moda China, UITIC – Shanghai gearing up for major event‘China taking advantage of rock bottom hide prices’rnDuties on U.S. hides – opportunities for other countries? ...moreEthiopia’s Modjo Leather Manufacturing Hub aims to boost exportsAddis Ababa, Ethiopia (12 April 2025) – The Modjo state-of-the art leather manufacturing facility and a renovated satellite laboratory are intended to spearhead Ethiopia's leather industry and foster sustainable employment opportunities.The project is a collaborative initiative, funded by the European Union (EU) and implemented by t ...moreHail-fellow, well-met, in a genuine way - Obituary: Denis Manning – Kronies Footwear, Trenzado Footwear (29/03/1954-18/03/2025)Sadly, Denis Manning passed away on Tuesday, 18 March after a battle with cancer, 11 days before his 71st birthday.Denis arrived in South Africa with his wife, Jane, in March 1976 and settled in Pinetown. He joined Kronies as a trainee factory manager and worked there for many years, firstly with Hans Krohn and Doug Roberts and then ...moreA ‘mouse’, who was in every way outsized - Obituary: Tony Jelinski – Everflex Manufacturing (19/10/1945-16/03/2025)Tony Jelinski – who was also known as Mighty Mouse and whose personality, friendships and business acumen were a lot bigger than the biggest mouse you have ever seen.Due to my age of 84, I am the dinosaur of the partners of the PMC Group, of which Everflex, Tony’s sphere, was such a big part.I was responsible for getting Tony ...moreEagle Italian businesses ‘set to reopen’Marondera, Zimbabwe – Eagle Italian Leather (Pvt) Ltd and Eagle Italian Shoes (Pvt) Ltd, which operate as a combined tanning and footwear manufacturing business and which were set up about 20 years ago to supply the Zimbabwean Government with military boots, are expecting to reopen, director Francesco Marconati said this month.He sa ...moreRolfes management get to know new colleaguesSpeciality chemicals distributor the Solevo Group, which acquired various Rolfes businesses in SA last year to add to its African portfolio, had a teambuilding and strategic session for senior management in Côte d'Ivoire recently. Pictured are the 4 South Africans (from left): Quintin Marais, MD of Rolfes Leather, Justin Ghersie, co ...moreThe journey of Ali Hakimi: A career path defined by leatherMy career journey is a testament to a passion for craftsmanship. I was born and raised in Tehran, Iran, and completed my high school education in 1974. Shortly thereafter, I spent two years working in my father's engineering company, where I was exposed to numerous industries. It was during this time that I discovered my interest in leath ...moreThe use of copper nanoparticles to prevent bacterial and fungal growth on leatherIntroductionBiocides and fungicides are used at different stages of the leather-making process. However, bacteria and fungi are still able to grow on finished leather, and especially vegetable tanned leather. The reason for this is that sweat from footwear can act as a carbon source for microbial growth, or that the concentration of fungi ...moreDepartment of Agriculture seeks King’s support in FMD campaignPretoria, Gauteng, SA (21 February 2025) – The Minister of Agriculture, John Steenhuisen, accompanied by the KwaZulu-Natal MEC for Agriculture, T.P. Madlopha-Mthethwa and industry role-players met with King Misuzulu kaZwelithini at the eMashobeni Royal Palace in Nongoma to discuss the ongoing challenges posed by Foot and Mouth Disea ...moreAfrica Agri Tech Conference and Exhibition: ‘All problems have a common solution – technology’Pretoria, Gauteng, SA – The third Africa Agri Tech Conference and Exhibition (AAT), taking place from 18 to 20 March 2025 at the CSIR Convention Centre in Pretoria, is the gateway to the latest AgTech breakthroughs.“The biggest challenges facing food producers today – rising input costs, erratic weather, theft, and logis ...moreHistory: British United Shoe Machinery : Harking back to the days of the great BUSMBarry Turner joined British United Shoe Machinery (BUSM) in Port Elizabeth in the 1970s, when PE was still a major footwear manufacturing centre and BUSM was the preeminent machinery and component supplier to the footwear industry. He got in touch with S&V last year looking for fellow BUSM old boy Johannes (Hannes) Harding, who, with ...moreLeather & Hide Council of America backs Congressional Slow Fashion CaucusStay Slow. Stay Real. Enjoy the Journey.03 December 2024 – The Leather and Hide Council of America (LHCA) has pledged its support to the Congressional Slow Fashion Caucus. The caucus, founded by district of Maine congresswoman Chellie Pingree, Washington district’s Marie Gluesenkamp Perez and California's Sydney Kamlager-Dove ...moreISTT launches online courses for international marketGrahamstown, E. Cape, SA – This year, the International School of Tanning Technology will become just that – international – and our first 2 foreign customers have signed up before we launch.All our courses have been redeveloped for online tuition.Given the shock announcement last year that the University of Northampton ...moreArcelor Mittal closure: A blow for northern KZNSteelmaker Arcelor Mittal – Iscor in the good old days – announced the imminent closure of 2 plants, in Newcastle and Vereeniging. While Vereeniging is a major industrial area, Newcastle has been dependent on the jobs provided by coal mines – many now closed – and the steelmaker. We asked leather and apparel busine ...moreDecember 2024 Retail: A season of mixed fortunesSalma Muhammad, Bhamjee’s Shoe CentreJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA – It’s an absolute disaster. For the year up to December, we’ve been trading at 50% of what we normally trade at, and this month – when we would expect turnover to be much, much higher, we’re trading at what we would normally trade for the r ...moreSAFLIA: Imports climb, local production drops, but cost saving measures expectedDurban, KZN, SA - While local footwear manufacturing has dropped by 15% from January to August, footwear imports have risen by almost 35% in the same period, according to Jirka Vymĕtal, executive director, Southern African Footwear & Leather Industries Association.“Imports this year to August were up, year on year, by 34.5% to ...moreSAFLIA: Hopefully the slide will be reversedDurban, KZN, SA – My forecast for 2024 is that production will be 12.5% down on last year. Meaning 41,690,000 pairs.The last time we saw such low volumes was in 2007.My forecast for next year is that production will be stabilised at the same level as this year – let’s say 42,000,000 pairs. However, with some serious inte ...moreThe Complete Shoemaker – and GolferObituary: Michael Lambrakis – Scotts Group, Frame Group, Poly-Soles, OG Footwear, Kalistos Footwear, Lambella Footwear, Andreoli Shoes, ShoePairMarket (04/04/1945-20/09/2024) ...moreA cost-effective method of reducing loose grain damage during the bating processIntroductionEnzymatic bating is an important part of the leather making process. Bating enzymes help remove unwanted skin components from the hide structure, as well as any scud present on the grain layer. Good bating leads to clean, soft leather. Under bating results in poor removal of unwanted skin components, and a firmer crust leather ...more‘We have and will continue to investigate sourcing opportunities for apparel’Several SA raw materials make it into H&M’s value chain, but so far, no finished goods ...moreClarks’ Indian departure — what went wrong?A report from Yahoo Finance on August 27, 2024, reveals that Clarks, the iconic British footwear brand, is closing its stores in India due to "differences over terms" with its local partner, Reliance Retail.This unexpected development underscores the critical importance of aligning with local partners and effectively m ...moreComfort is what the market is demandingExpansion AnnouncementOrthoLite, a leading manufacturer of comfort foam insoles, has announced it is expanding its European facility in Almansa, Spain. This strategic move aims to enhance production capacity, innovation, and speed-to-market manufacturing, enabling OrthoLite to better serve its brand partners ...moreItalian Trade Agency sponsors SA visit to Milan fairsThis September, SAFLEC, accompanied by a group of trailblazing members funded by the Italian Trade Agency, made a significant and impactful presence at Simac Tanning Tech, Lineapelle, Micam, and Milan Fashion Week.More than a routine industry visit, this participation was a strategic initiative designed to gather high-level intelligence a ...moreANAEROBIC LEATHERAnaerobic leather - most people have heard of the leather find that was a shoe or a bag from antiquity, stored in a preservation condition that has allowed the relic to last several hundred years without being broken down. Is this the model of how, as a material, leather can be stored in a fossilised form taking carbon out of the atmosphe ...moreIULTCS Young Leather Scientist Grant Programme 2025 announcedThe IULTCS Young Scientist Grant Programme for 2025 is underway. The details follow and further information can be found on the IULTCS website https://iultcs.org/ or by contacting the IUR chair, Dr Volker Rabe (Volker.rabe@tfl.com).Background:The IULTCS is committed to co-operation between the individual member societies and to providing ...moreSAFLEC AGM – ‘recovery after the storm’Sponsored by the SA Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC). Durban, KZN, SA – This year’s SA Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC) AGM – the 22nd – was a much smaller occasion than in previous years, an acknowledgement of a reduced budget. It was, however, quite upbeat. ...moreThe non-athletic exhibitors at ComradesThe Department of Trade, Industry and Competition sponsors local manufacturers of non-sports products to exhibit at the Comrades Expo. This year, that group included: ...moreAcid swelling – how does it affect chrome tanning and the resultant leather?IntroductionMost new tanners learn, either through courses that they attend, or from experienced tanners in the tannery where they are employed, that it is important to use normal salt (sodium chloride) in the pickling process prior to tanning in order to prevent acid swelling of the hides or skins. Almost all wet blue plants use salt in ...moreAutomation and supervision of the leather making process: The present and future of leather processing technologyIntroductionThe leather processing industry is constantly evolving, thanks to the introduction of innovative technologies and advanced software solutions that are gradually taking it to ever more advanced automation horizons. One of the leading companies in this evolutionary process is Erretre, which for almost 50 years has been developin ...moreAnd more pressure from SAFLIA on SA Government to control Temu, SheinUmhlanga, KZN, SA - Online retailers Temu and Shein are undercutting local retailers in part because they’re not paying all the tax on products they should be, SAFLIA executive director Jirka Vymĕtal said on Friday.“Investigating their products, we discovered that SARS has a standard import duty on small parcels of 20%,&rdquo ...moreThe R-CTFL Masterplan, 5 years on – Part IV ‘Growth? Not only has there been no growth, business has dropped’All the South African-owned factories who speciaiise in supplying volume orders to chains, and who agreed to comment, said volumes had dropped and that some of their chain customers openly said they had gone back to China.There have been casualties: In KZN, Nikkita Footwear Manufacturing, Prisaan Footwear, De Javw/Footech and Everstrong S ...moreThe 8th annual ARSUTORIA Workshops: Sponsored by the SA Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC).The 8th annual ARSUTORIA 1-week Footwear & Leather Workshop in Durban and the ARSUTORIA 1-day Handbag & Accessories Workshop in Cape Town took place earlier this month.Below, Stefano Migliavacca, who runs International Projects at Edizione AF Srl, which also operates the ARSUTORIA school in Milan, says that to be successful export ...moreThe way forward for local manufacturing – an outsider’s perspective: Be realistic, be differentWhether you’re selling to your local market, or trying to export, you have to find your own identity. You cannot compete head-on with the East. Even if you offer similar footwear, there must be points of difference that offer value to your customers.In terms of export – and that is ultimately the goal of these courses – ...moreOnline from China: Noncompliant footwear, respiratory protection products slip in undetectedChinese online retailers Temu and Shein, which deliver parcels to individual consumers directly from China, have opened a loophole for noncompliant safety footwear and respiratory protection equipment to enter SA.The safety footwear styles offered by both do not have National Regulator for Compulsory Standards (NRCS) approval numbers, and ...moreWhy leather factories in Jinja have closedJinja, Uganda (Monday 06 May 2024) – Four leather factories in Jinja City have closed, leaving hundreds of former workers unemployed.The factories are SWT Leather Industries located on Mutibwa Road, Mehaka Leather Exim Smc Limited, Uganda Leather and Tannery Industries, Jinja, and Loyal Small-Scale Industries located on Nile Crescen ...moreThe debate – and heat – over the closure of ICLT needs to end, and there are ways forwardIn a fascinating 3-way Teams discussion (4, but I was just an observer) last month between SATRA’s Dr Christine Anscombe, the ISTT’s Dr Clive Jackson-Moss and Authenticae’s Karl Flowers, the likely future of training in the tanning industry in Europe, and in countries which traditionally sent students to Europe, took som ...moreR-CTFL criticism: Patel calls for manufacturer-chain meetingsCape Town, W. Cape, SA – In response to criticism that the R-CTFL Masterplan has not delivered benefits for footwear manufacturing, Minister of Trade, Industry and Competition Ebrahim Patel, who attended the virtual PMO core meeting last week, asked the footwear representatives, representing SAFLIA and SAFLEC, to compile a full list ...moreTemu pulls safety footwear from its SA site, SAFLIA says it’s going after other noncompliant suppliersUmhlanga, KZN, SA – Following an investigation by SAFLIA, Chinese online retailer Temu said after last week’s report that it had withdrawn all safety footwear from its South African portal.SAFLIA found that Temu’s safety footwear didn’t comply with the marking and certification requirements for safety footwear in S ...moreAlfonso Smerilli of Make My Shoes Store Lab and Smerilli Design Manufacturing - Direct-to-consumer AND supplying mini-chains with European quality footwearAlfonso Smerilli has had a long and varied career in the South African footwear industry and now, just shy of his 52nd birthday, and in a sector which is mostly struggling, he’s embarked on his most challenging role yet – as a factory owner, blazing a different trail.His start in the footwear industry was with a factory owned ...moreAPLF Leather, Materials+, Fashion Access: Thurling Investments: In many ways, back to the old glory days : Exotic leathersCape Town, W. Cape, SA – We found the fair to be excellent and, in many ways, back to the old glory days where everybody that we do business with around the globe attended. We had current and past customers visit us from North America, South America, Europe, Australia and of course the East (which included Japan, Korea, etc).T ...moreSAFLEC: As world output exceeds demand, SA is still an attractive source of foowearSAFLEC executive director Nerisha Jairaj took part in session 1 of the Global Footwear Executive Summit, which covered footwear production and its supply chain.The theme of the session was to discuss the current scenario where the demand for footwear is significantly lower than the available supply, and finding a balance for the supply ch ...moreThe R-CTFL Masterplan: It’s not enough to say ‘please buy more from us’, says NCRFCape Town, W. Cape, SA – The group monitoring the progress of the R-CTFL Masterplan – the PMO Core – “does not have a mandate to engage with the media”, according to Michael Lawrence, who represents the National Clothing Retail Federation of SA (NCRF) on the PMO Core.He was responding last week to the report ...moreOnline retailer Temu selling illegal safety footwear in SAUmhlanga, KZN, SA – An investigation by SAFLIA has shown that online retailer Temu, which officially launched in South Africa on 17 January, is selling non-compliant safety footwear in SA. SAFLIA signed up to the site and ordered a style labelled as ‘Men's Summer Mesh Steel Toe Shoes Breathable Work Safety Shoes Industri ...moreThe potential of water hyacinth as a source of vegetable tanninsIntroductionDepending on the type of leather being produced, hides and skins are normally tanned using either a mineral or a vegetable tanning process. Chrome tanning accounts for more than 90% of the world’s leather production, but there is concern over the environmental impact of this tanning method. Vegetable tanning is a more en ...moreSappi’s Pelletin achieves feed safety assurance certification for its lignin-based animal feed additiveJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA (19 March 2024) – Sappi Southern Africa has achieved GMP+ Feed Safety Assurance (FSA) 2020 certification for Pelletin, one of its lignin-based products used as an additive in animal feed manufacturing. This makes Sappi the second organisation in Africa to attain this certification.GMP+ is the world’s ...moreSouth African beef exports hit 7-year high in JanuarySouth African beef exports have shown strong growth over the last year. In January, they achieved their highest level in seven years.South Africa has a vibrant agricultural sector, and the local livestock and meat industry is no exception.A 2021 AgriSETA report stated that South Africa accounted for over 21% of the total meat produced in ...moreChain store visits: It’s very hard to find the locally made shoesSAFLIA and S&V have separately carried out chain store visits in recent weeks at some prominent shopping centres, including most of the apparel chains aimed at middle- to upper middle-class consumers.There were a number of difficulties:It wasn’t always easy to find country of origin marking. Different chains – or perhaps d ...moreAdmiral: Quietly, over a long period, it has grown a business supplying mainly into the sport trade and independent retailersJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA – Admiral first traded in South Africa in the 1970s and returned after isolation again in the late 80s, and while there have been changes, the business model has been largely consistent over that period: A brand offering technical clothing, footwear, and sports equipment for all teamwear sporting codes to t ...moreThe monthly PMO Extended committee meeting: Duty-free status isn’t a straightforward processRemoving the duty on imported components is a process, and footwear is just starting out on it.Clothing has been granted duty free access to imported woven fabrics, but that doesn’t automatically extend to footwear.“What I didn’t know was that separately from the HS tariff code for the product, there are specific rebate ...moreFarming for the future with modernised systemsAccording to a new report by the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO), Tracking progress on food and agriculture-related SDG indicators 2023,15 years since the establishment of the Agenda 2030 for Sustainable Development, agriculture-related targets have stagnated or regressed. Furthermore, major Pan-European manufactu ...moreReaction from local former studentsGranville Steyn, Leather Business Manager, DyStar Africa (Pty) LtdPietermaritzburg, KZN, SA – I started as a lab assistant way back in 1980 at The Western Tanning Company, in Wellington under Messrs. Gerald Tutt and Alan Sykes, just to mention a couple. In the meantime, Chris Black was already studying at Nene College, and on his re ...moreBeyond the lens: How Vision AI is transforming PPE usage and monitoringIt’s an increasingly surveilled world – now Big Brother can keep an eye on staff not complying with PPE rules. ...moreAssociation of Construction Health and Safety Management appoints 2 new directorsPort Elizabeth, E. Cape, SA – The Association of Construction Health and Safety Management (ACHASM) has appointed 2 new directors.Benny Boyce, who is registered as a Construction Health & Safety Manager (CHSM) with the South African Council for the Project and Construction Management Professions (SACPCMP), is the Health, Safety, ...moreThe R-CTFL Masterplan, 5 years on: It’s done nothing for us, most footwear sources claim, but plan’s backers say they ‘need to engage more’Has the R-CTFL Masterplan, launched 5 years ago, done anything to increase local procurement of footwear and leather goods by the chains that agreed to be part of it?It depends on who you ask, and the answers are very different.In the ‘yes’ corner is Michael Lawrence, who wears 2 hats – as director of the National Clothi ...moreFebruary workshops in ZimbabweOn 12-13th February SLF deliverED a 2-day workshop in Harare, Zimbabwe where tanneries from Zimbabwe, Madagascar and Zambia cAme together to participate.This was a continuation of the work under the SIPS project that began last year, and the last issue of S&V African Leather reported on the positive results of the work already complet ...moreA simple – but nuanced – answer: Yes, farming has benefited some crocodiliansCharlie Manolis is chief scientist at Wildlife Management International in Karama, Northern Territory, Australia, and he is also a co-chair of the CSG. Below, he says crocodilian farming has more-or-less eradicated poaching, but that other human pressures threaten many crocodilian species.rn ...moreEU Green Claims Directive (EUGCD):In other news, on Wednesday 17th January 2024, the EU overwhelmingly voted for the adoption of the Green Claims Directive, with 593 votes in favour, 21 against and 14 abstentions. The Directive that is designed to prevent companies from misleading consumers through “greenwashing” or vague marketing claims, will now go for Cou ...moreGroundcover: The rise of the second generationThe Midlands, KZN, SA – 2023 was a big year for Groundcover.The business was founded by my parents, Amanda and Justin McCarthy, in the KZN midlands in 1990.What started as a passion for leatherwork has since grown into a sensibly sized and sustainable business that employs 30 individuals.What has been key to our success is the commu ...moreRetired: Trevor Espey ‘The Top Agent’ goes surfing fulltimeCape Town, W. Cape, SA – Former Western Cape agent for Brite Reef Swimwear, Spike Apparel and Sterling Clothing, Trevor Espey, has retired after 43 years as an agent.“In the early years, I represented Hang Ten in the Cape and later controlled the brand within SA Franchising,” he wrote. “What a long, lovely story. M ...moreThe hardest working man you could hope to meetObituary: Roland ‘Roley’ Rogers – Bata SA, commission agent (11/09/1938-23/01/2024) Roley was born in Kuruman in the Northern Cape and was educated at CBC in Kimberly.He was an outstanding sportsman and represented OFS and Eastern Cape schools at rugby, cricket, and swimming.He joined Bata in Johannesburg and worked ...moreMossop Leather has overcome load shedding, and other tanneries are following similar pathsColumnist H. Procter wrote about solar power in the November issue, noting that it could both address sustainability issues and free tanneries from load shedding.“I had a call with Mossop Leather MD Gert Kruger after we published that article,” he wrote. “He told me it was possible to get all electricity needs with some ...moreSynthetic wigs, weaves and extensions given new life in KenyaKenyan entrepreneur, tanner and industrial chemist Newton Owino, who founded and owns fish skin tannery and footwear/ leather goods manufacturer Alisam Products Development & Design, has been working on a project to recycle synthetic hair extensions and wigs. ...moreHe had the vision to start local production, and expand into Africa : Obituary: Dietmar Theilig - Boehme Africa (now DyStar Africa) (12/05/1938-30/11/2023)Pietermaritzburg, KZN, SA – It is with sadness that we learnt of the passing of Dietmar Theilig, the former Managing Director of Boehme Africa.I met Dietmar 35 years ago when I was headhunted and appointed as a leather technician. At the time, Boehme Africa was a major role player in the textile and leather industries in Southern Af ...moreShort summary on the life history of Gerhard Dietmar Theilig : Obituary: Dietmar Theilig - Boehme Africa (now DyStar Africa) (12/05/1938-30/11/2023)Born 12th May 1938 in Leipzig-Moeckern. Confirmed on 10.05 1952 at Pfarramt Der Luthergemeinde, Crimmitschau. He had 1 sister, Ursula, who was 7 years younger than himself.His father was in the textile trade and supplied the wool fabric for the army winter coats, and they lived at the army barracks in Leipzig.His father was accused of ind ...moreSAFLIA AGM: ‘Opposition to unfairness of collective bargaining drove SAFLIA membership drop’In an implicit question mark over the future of collective bargaining in the South African footwear manufacturing industry, the Southern African Footwear & Leather Industries Association lost many of its members, most of them SMMEs, at the beginning of 2023.“…they believe our wage rates in the footwear industry have grown ...morePuma’s partnership with basketball star crumbles under pressurePuma's major breakup with a basketball star is a story of social media stardom, Tesla drive-by drama, courtroom proceedings, and some lessons we can take home. ...moreLocal production up in 2022, but ‘Masterplan has failed footwear’Contrary to expectations, SA footwear manufacturing in 2022 rose by 20% over 2021 from 51 119 332 pairs to 61 334 614 pairs. The bulk of the increase was made up of cheap constructions such as flip flops, executive director Jirka Vymětal said.Noting the apparently worsening youth unemployment in SA, which he called &l ...moreTech Fund: Footwear manufacturers to pay full levy again after long ‘holiday’, NBCLI levy holiday to last another yearAll SA footwear manufacturers will again pay full contributions to the Footwear Industry Technological Fund – the statutory monthly levy based on a percentage of weekly wages paid – from January 2024. A 3-year payment ‘holiday’ between July 2020, at the beginning of the covid crisis, and June this year, was replace ...moreThe effect of calcium concentration in delimed hides on the efficiency of batingThis is part of a series contributed by the International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) in Grahamstown, E. Cape, SA, summarising complicated research papers into short articles more readily comprehensible to a wider audience.rnrnPart 1. Preparation of delimed hides with different residual concentrations ...moreLegacy Exotic Leather plans small plant for top qualityBulawayo, Zimbabwe – I would like to advise that I am establishing a new consultancy company with effect from January 2024.Legacy Exotic Leather Specialists (Pvt) Ltd will operate from Bulawayo. The initial focus will be on offering technical consultancy to local companies involved in processing exotic leathers, especially elephant ...moreHello Quality: An accidental purchase leads to a new business with big ideasCape Town, W. Cape, SA – Horse riding is mostly an elite activity, and it comes with specialised requirements – it’s not an industry you stumble into by chance.Not usually, anyway.In 2014, former Zimbabwean Pardon Gwenzi was running a bar at a golf club in Greenpoint, and with the cold Cape winter approaching, he and his ...moreFashion World Tokyo: Products that are identifiably African attract interestA series on successful South African footwear and leather goods exporters. Sponsored by the SA Footwear & Leather Export Council (SAFLEC).A South African delegation returned to Japan’s Fashion World Tokyo trade fair from 10-12 October, for the first time post-covid. Described as ‘Japan’s largest international fashion ...moreFrom outsider to visionary — how Oliver Reichert reshaped BirkenstockWhen Oliver Reichert assumed the role of CEO at Birkenstock in 2013, he brought something the iconic German footwear brand hadn’t seen in generations — an outsider’s perspective. This move was unconventional, and some may have questioned entrusting the legacy of a family-owned company to someone unfamiliar with the shoe ...moreVolontè: Upgrade and diversify advice to SAVolontè System Conveyor director Felice Volontè believes South African footwear manufacturers have the potential to increase production “substantially”, and to grow their export business, but that they must upgrade their products, and diversify their production.He was an annual visitor to South Africa before covi ...morePMC: Leather cutting, ‘TPR lite’ among the highlightsOn the shoe machinery side, Italy is holding its own. Companies that have been around for many years are positive for future trading. There are 2 reasons – China is slowing, and their manufacturers are concentrating on high tech industries mainly pertaining to electronic goods.. Also, the Italian government is assisting Italian shoe ...moreBresan ‘not in business rescue’Howick, KZN, SA - Despite to the rumours doing the rounds, Bresan Footwear is not in business rescue, but like a lot of businesses in the manufacturing sector, we have been affected by the current state of the South African economy.Post lockdown, the business climate has changed and while we regained our production levels to pre covid lev ...moreBBF and Rebel accuse Dromex of copying, which it denies – but that’s the way the industry operates, says distributorThree of SA’s biggest PPE OEMs are involved in what is – so far – a war of words over copying.On 04 September, BBF Safety Group sent a notice to its distributors and some end users claiming Dromex’s Nobuhle and Ulteco Plus styles “replicate too closely our Sisi Reese and Bova Neoflex safety boot styles” ...moreCobblers Lunch: A final farewellCape Town, W. Cape, SA - The annual Cape Town Cobblers' Lunch, which was first held in 2004, has been discontinued, the organising committee said last week.Brian Schenck, Pierre Marais and Anthony Lopez said declining attendance was behind their decision."Even though there was always great enthusiasm and a lot of chin wagging that to ...moreA turbulent month for the Leather IndustryA busy and turbulent month for the leather industry, particularly in the UK, as we saw one of our oldest tanneries, Pittards, head into administration, resulting in the loss of 150 jobs in the UK and 850 jobs in Ethiopia. That news was followed just a week later with a letter from the Vice Chancellor of the University of Northampton to in ...moreTST: Of robots and precisionAfrican Leather: What is interesting about the Barnini spray arm?The Barnini Robot system is the first multi-patented leather loading system in the world, that is capable of automatically loading leather from a stand, platform or chain.The robot system is also capable of finishing panels or whole skins, simulating production systems ...moreKangol: SA footwear distribution rights unknown as Jumbo agreement endsPietermaritzburg, KZN, SA - Jumbo Footwear group subsidiary Foothills Trading & Investment 2 (Pty) Ltd’s distribution agreement with Kangol ends on 31 December, Dionne Prinsloo of Allied Agencies confirmed on Friday.”We are currently in the process of winding down our involvement,” he wrote. “We have no idea wh ...moreJim Green ‘the only SA manufacturer who pays full rate’, claims YouTube influencerAn “influencer” who promotes Jim Green Footwear on YouTube has made the claim that it is “one of the only if not the only” South African shoe manufacturers that pays 100% of the prescribed [wage] rate. He said others paid 65% of the rate.The influencer, who operates under the name Rose Anvil, made the claim in a pr ...moreSustainability Glossary: A guide to picking the right term for the application – AND helping you understand what this is all aboutIf you had to pick the most used word from the many in the environmental wave which is engulfing the apparel industry, it would probably be ‘sustainability’.There are several other very common terms and words, like ‘global warming’, ‘carbon offsetting’ and ‘biodiversity’.All of them describe ...moreHow a trip tarnished Germany’s imageI was in Italy last week, sponsored by Assomac Servizi to attend the Simac/Tanning Tech fair, and technical reports will follow in the October issues of S&V African Leather and S&V Footwear & Leather Goods.My indelible memory of this trip isn’t of the fair, however. It is the apparent affirmation of the grumbles I’ ...moreDecoding Tanning Science: Short – term preservation of hides using wheat branIntroductionIn order to prevent hides from rotting between the time the animal is slaughtered and the time the hide is processed in the tannery, they need to undergo some form of preservation. The most commonly used form of preservation is salting, which dehydrates the hide and thus prevents bacterial growth. It is estimated that at least ...moreOutdoor: Awaiting seasonal upturnCape Town, W. Cape, SA - Trade is quiet at the moment, but winter is always quieter for us, and we expect it to pick up with summer.We get a lot of tourists at our Paarden Eiland store, and they tend to kit themselves out. Local customers at our other stores tend to buy what they need, as they need it.Sourcing has improved. We buy from di ...moreSAFLEC AGM: Unity in diversityExport via chain retailers, export via brands, export via fairs – all roads that lead to export growth are worth exploring. ...moreSustainability: Sam Setter's 'Pills' - For readers who need some wry medicinal humourLet me stick to the subject of sustainability, which by now is the magic word in every industry. So, everything that you produce must be ‘sustainable’, whatever that means, otherwise the big brands and distribution chains, famous shops, etc., will not buy your products anymore. Since sustainability is interpreted as an environ ...moreTravel advice for anyone attending IULTCS CongressThe XXXVII IULTCS Congress in Chengdu, China, from 17 to 20 October 2023 (https://iultcs.org/events/future/) is fast approaching, and the committee members are aware than many people will be considering if they will be attending this important event. There is no doubt that the event will be very rewarding to anyone who can participate at ...moreItaly: Values up, volumes downFirst quarter of 2023: Turnover (+13.6%) - Exports in value terms (+16.1%) - Export volumes (-2%) - Production (-1%)Milan, Italy (10 July 2023) – The first quarter of 2023 saw the recovery of the Italian footwear sector continue, with turnover up +13.6% compared to the same period in the previous year. This is th ...moreGlobal: Richemont buys top Italian shoe factoryCape Town, W. Cape, SA – Richemont, the SIX Swiss Exchange- and Johannesburg Stock Exchange-listed luxury goods group, has bought a controlling stake in Milan-based men’s and women’s footwear manufacturer Gianvito Rossi, according to a release on Friday:Gianvito Rossi, Founder, CEO and Creative Director of the eponymous ...moreHealth care and security inventions win £25,000 Engineering Innovation awardsSince 2014, the UK-based Royal Academy of Engineering has awarded an annual ‘Africa Prize for Engineering Innovation’, which this year has been given to 2 recipients, from South Africa and Uganda. The South African entry is aimed at improving women’s health, the Ugandan one at upscaling security. ...moreForklift safety – a combination of new technology and better habitsWith most accidents in the material handling industry attributable to collisions between forklifts and pedestrians, more needs to be done to reduce injuries and potential fatalities. ...moreDialdehyde starch, a sustainable, environment-friendly tanning chemicalThis is part of a series contributed by the International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT) in Grahamstown, E. Cape, SA, summarising complicated research papers into short articles more readily comprehensible to a wider audience. ...moreWage Negotiations Eddels: Reduced pairage, more optimismPietermaritzburg, KZN, SA – After 3 months under new ownership, Eddels has settled into a routine which will hopefully lead it into sustainable profitability, new GM Steven Jacobs said last week. “This is a business in distress, and we’re not trying to hide it,” he said, “bu ...moreGVC feedback on Paris talks to ban plastic wasteFive members of the Vinyl Institute of the United States represented SAVA and fellow members of the Global Vinyl Council at the United Nations negotiations on a binding global agreement on plastic waste last week. During ten days in France, the PVC team met with more than 50 national delegations, trade associations, al ...moreFootwear, leather goods will mostly NOT be duty free from Africa – for nowWith little fanfare, SAFLIA, the DTIC and the unions have managed to persuade the SA Government to keep most footwear and leather goods tariff lines out of the soon-to-be-implemented African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA), which will see most products traded duty free between African countries.So far.AfCFTA’s aim is to create ...moreFormer Joey & Sam team back with leather rangeJohannesburg, Gauteng, SA – Muhammad Bulbulia, formerly with retailer Joey & Sam, which is now closed, said the family business began selling tea beverages during the covid19 period, but has come back into footwear with an all-leather product range imported from Brazil.“Clave is the new winter collection we are currently s ...moreLeather furniture market: ‘Not as bad as you might think’Cape Town, W. Cape, SA – “The question is: If a consumer has R50 000 to spend right now, will he spend it on a leather suite or on an inverter? It’s something of a no-brainer,” said Leather Link’s Hugo Zuanni, in response to a query on the state of the leather furniture market.Leather Link is an agent, i


































































